Author: PetGd

Paresis and Paralysis in Rabbits Paresis is defined as weakness of voluntary movement, or partial paralysis, while paralysis is the complete lack of voluntary movement. Symptoms and Types Four of the main types of motor dysfunction include: Quadriparesis or tetraparesis – weakness of voluntary movements in all limbs Quadriplegia or tetraplegia – absence of all voluntary limb movement Paraparesis – weakness of voluntary movements in hind limbs Paraplegia – absence of all voluntary movement in the hind limbs Their symptoms may present suddenly or gradually. However, sudden onset of paresis/paralysis is common following an injury to the spine. In fact, many rabbits sustain a fracture or a dislocation of the spine just by suddenly jumping within their cages due to a startling event such as a loud thunderstorm, fireworks, or loud noise from unfamiliar people or pets in the home. Other symptoms associated with these conditions include: Abnormal walking pattern (unable to hop or get up; dragging of affected limbs) Loss of bladder control Loss of hair, flaking over the head, shoulders, and tail due to inability to properly groom Severe obesity due to lack of exercise Causes In rabbits, weakness may be due to the effects of organ or metabolic disease, obesity, or to direct damage to the nerves. If the nerves are injured — either within the brain or spinal column — they will not communicate properly with each other and the rest of the body. This can lead to to increased stiffness in the muscles, and hypersensitive reflexes. If the peripheral (outer) nerves are damaged, meanwhile, absence of muscle reflexes and decreased muscle tone is seen. Diagnosis Your veterinarian will first need to confirm that the problem is weakness or paralysis by localizing the problem to either the lower or upper motor neuron system. Several tests will be conducted to determine the underlying cause of the motor dysfunction. A complete blood profile will be conducted, including a chemical blood profile, a complete blood count, a urinalysis, and an electrolyte panel. Both voluntary and involuntary motor responses will be analyzed, with urinary and bladder function checked. X-ray imaging is an important diagnostic procedure for the discovery of this disorder’s origins. Spinal X-rays will be taken to assess fracture or dislocation of a calcified disc, narrowed disc spaces, bony tumor, or vertebral malformation, and skull X-rays may show a dental disease, which, if chronic, can lead to weakness and chronic debility. Whole body X-rays may identify an underlying heart disease, tumors, kidney stones, or orthopedic disorders. In addition, computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) may be used to evaluate potential brain disease. An abdominal ultrasonography will be done if an underlying metabolic disease (e.g., renal, hepatic) is suspected. Since partial or complete loss of muscle control is most often linked to a trauma or diseased condition of the spine or nervous system, the most effective method by which to determine the location of a spinal cord injury, tumor, or infection is to take a sample of spinal cord fluid (cerebrospinal fluid [CSF]) for analysis. Your doctor will also need to get a clear view of the spinal cord. Using a technique called a myelography, which uses an injection of a radiopaque agent into the spinal space in order to improve visibility on X-ray, he or she will be able to view any apparent abnormalities in the spine. The veterinarian may also need to take a nerve sample, or a sample from the muscle tissue, for biopsy.   Treatment Your rabbit will be cared for as an inpatient if it presents with severe weakness or paralysis, or until bladder function can be ascertained (an indicator of the severity of the condition). If possible, the veterinarian will treat the underlying cause of the paresis or paralysis. For example, pain relieving medication as well as anesthetics and gastric protective agents may be provided. If paralysis is present, the bladder may be emptied by manual compression. Inability to urinate voluntarily can make the rabbit more susceptible to infection, so it will be important to monitor for signs of urinary infection and the spread of infection into the bladder. For fractures and damaged nerves, your doctor may be able to surgically repair them. It must be kept in mind that some injuries are too traumatic for repair. The final outcome will be dependent on the diagnosis. Living and Management If your rabbit is having problems with urinary continence, you will need to make extra efforts to keep the bedding clean so that the rabbit is not in soiled bedding. Additionally, keep the fur clean and dry; check and clean your rabbit’s genital and hind leg area frequently to prevent urine scalding. You will need to restrict your rabbit’s activity until spinal trauma and disk prolapse can be ruled out. If your rabbit has been placed on cage rest, you will need to make sure to move your rabbit at regular intervals in order to prevents lung congestion and pressure sore (bed sore) formation by turning it from one side to the other four to eight times daily. This is very important, as the rabbit will not be able to do this on its own. If your rabbit is unable to urinate on its own, you will need to perform manual expression of its bladder regularly enough tot prevent the possibility of bladder infection. Your veterinarian will go over the procedure with you so that you can perform this task at home. If your rabbit is only affected in the hind legs, a cart — the type that is made for small breed dogs — may sometimes be fitted for larger rabbits, and may be tolerated for limited periods. Encourage oral fluid intake by offering fresh water, wetting leafy vegetables, or flavoring water with vegetable juice, and offer a large selection of fresh, moistened greens such as cilantro, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens, spinach, collard greens, etc., and good-quality grass hay. You should also continue to offer your rabbit it’s usual pellet diet, as the initial goal is to get the rabbit to eat a full diet. If your rabbit cannot, or will not eat, you will need to syringe feed a gruel mixture. High-carbohydrate, high-fat nutritional supplements are contraindicated and should not be given with the approval of your doctor. Do not give your rabbit any foods or medicines that have not been preapproved by your veterinarian. Featured Image: iStock.com/xavierarnau

By Matt Soniak Rabbits are sometimes seen as low-maintenance, “starter” pets that can get by in an outdoor hutch with a few carrots and little monitoring. However, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Domestic rabbits are indoor pets that require as much attention as any other pet, including a specific diet and daily meals, regular cleaning of their quarters, daily monitoring and time out of their cage and medical care from a veterinarian with knowledge of and experience working with rabbits. Rabbits are also highly social animals that crave contact and interaction with their human caretakers. They need a lot more time and effort than people assume, but the payoff is a curious, playful companion that will be part of the family for years. Where Can I Find a Rabbit and What do I Need to Care for It? Because of the rabbit’s misrepresentation as an easy pet, many shelters have rabbits that were given up by people that couldn’t take care of them. To adopt a rabbit, check with local animal shelters, small animal rescue groups or the closest chapter of the House Rabbit Society. Rabbit Rescue and Rehab, the New York City chapter of the House Rabbit Society recommends the following items as part of their rabbit supply checklist: Habitat: though they’re relatively small, rabbits need quite a bit of space to stretch out or hop around. Mary Cotter, founder of Rabbit Rescue and Rehab and vice president of House Rabbit Society, recommends a puppy playpen for your rabbit to call home, but if you have to use a cage, make it the largest one you can get. The House Rabbit Society recommends purchasing a cage or crate no smaller than four feet long, two feet wide and four feet tall. This provides enough space for a litter box, toys, food and water bowls and for the rabbit to stand or lay stretched out. The crate should have a solid bottom, and a mat, blanket or towel on the bottom of the crate will keep the rabbit from slipping and give it a comfortable surface to sit on. Travel carrier: to take your rabbit home or to and from the veterinarian, you’ll need a hard plastic animal carrier, lined on the bottom with something soft and absorbent like a towel or blanket. Litter box and litter: rabbits are tidy by nature and won’t do their business freely all around their crate. Instead, they’ll pick one corner of the crate as their bathroom and consistently go there. Once your rabbit has made their choice, place the litter box or pan there. Cotter recommends lining the box with a layer of newspaper and then filling it all the way to the top with hay. This creates a “miniature yard” for the rabbit, where it can sit, eat and do its business while the hay absorbs the smell. Food: including hay, vegetables and pellets. Rabbits also need to stay hydrated, or intestinal issues can quickly occur. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Bowls for food and water: rabbits are curious and playful, and prone to tipping and flipping lightweight bowls as they move them around and explore their living space. Heavy ceramic crocks or metal bowls will be harder for rabbits to spill. Grooming tools: a soft, rabbit-safe brush is essential for removing hair when your rabbit sheds and safety nail clippers should be used for trimming a rabbit’s nails. Toys: toys provide mental and physical stimulation to keep rabbits from getting bored, overweight and depressed. Good rabbit toys include paper bags and cardboard boxes for crawling into, scratching and chewing, small balls or cat toys that can be tossed around and kitty condos for climbing. Play and exercise area: rabbits need four to five hours each day outside of their crate to exercise, play and socialize. For that, you’ll need a fairly large, rabbit-proofed space. Ideally, this area is carpeted to provide traction as the rabbit runs and jumps, as they can slip or slide and injure themselves on a hardwood or tile surface. How to Feed and Groom a Rabbit Rabbits require a mix of the following items in order to maintain a healthy diet: Hay: stimulates rabbits’ normal chewing behaviors and provides appropriate wear on their teeth, preventing dental disease. The fiber in hay will also encourage proper digestion. Fresh grass hays (such as Timothy, oat, coastal, brome, Bahia or wheat hay) should be provided to the rabbit in unlimited amounts every day. “Hay is the most important part of the diet; they can survive on this alone,” said Dr. Darryl Heard, DVM and professor at the University of Florida’s School of Veterinary Medicine. Vegetables: leafy green vegetables are used to supplement the hay and provide additional vitamins and nutrients. The House Rabbit Society recommends feeding your rabbit a daily mix of three different vegetables like carrots, collard greens, beet greens, broccoli and romaine lettuce. Rabbit pellets: provide additional nutrients to a rabbit but should only be fed as an additional supplement to its diet. Rabbit Rescue and Rehab advises against pellets that contain seeds, nuts or corn, as these are not required in a rabbit’s diet and can contribute to health problems. Water: as mentioned, rabbits should have access to fresh, clean water at all times. Sipper bottles can be used, Heard said, but should be checked regularly to ensure they are working properly, as rabbits will chew on the ends and can cause them to jam. Treats: every pet deserves a treat now and again, but be careful which ones you pick for your rabbit. Too many simple sugars or starches can throw the balance of bacteria in their intestinal tracts off, causing illness. When it comes to keeping your rabbit clean, rabbits are prodigious self-groomers and don’t need a whole lot of help from us, Cotter said. They’ll need to be brushed during their sheds and have their nails clipped every few months, but that’s is generally all that’s needed. Be sure to talk to your veterinarian about any nail-trimming questions you have before you attempt clipping at home. Rabbit Rescue and Rehab recommends changing your rabbit’s litter box daily and cleaning the crate once or twice a week by emptying it, sweeping it out and scrubbing the bottom with warm water. How to Keep a Rabbit Safe Around the House “Rabbits are very inquisitive and can get into trouble anywhere,” said Nickol Finch, head of the Exotics and Wildlife Department at Washington State University Veterinary Hospital. “They can open cupboards and chew on cleaners, they will chew on wood work, carpeting [and] wires, which can result in electrocution.” To rabbit-proof your pet’s play area, move houseplants or cover them with sheets and protect cords and wires with flexible plastic tubing. Cotter recommends putting sport socks on any furniture legs that the rabbit can get to. They won’t save the wood from being chewed, but can buy you a few minutes to redirect your rabbit’s attention to its own toys. Rabbits are small and delicate, and great care needs to be taken when handling them. Adults should be the primary caretaker of a pet rabbit and carefully supervise children interacting with them. When a rabbit must be held or carried, support their front half, under their rib cage, with one hand and their rear end with the other, holding them close to your body like a football. Keep their legs tucked underneath them to avoid back injury, and never lift a rabbit by the ears of scruff. What Type of Medical Care Do Rabbits Need? There are no recommended vaccines for rabbits in North America, but pet rabbits should be seen by a veterinarian at least once a year for a checkup and all pet rabbits should be spayed or neutered when they reach maturity. This helps prevent uterine cancer in female rabbits, aggressive behaviors like mounting and spraying in male rabbits and unintended breeding. Finding a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbit care and skilled in treating them can sometimes be difficult. The House Rabbit Society maintains lists of veterinarians around the country and your local chapter or rescue society can likely also recommend a local veterinarian with rabbit experience. Caring for a Rabbit Over the Course of Its Life There are dozens of different rabbit breeds that vary in size, color and body and ear type, but all have their own charms. A common misconception is that smaller breeds need less space than larger ones, but they actually need just as much room to run and hop around in. Some breeds have special needs that owners need to keep in mind. Angora rabbits, Heard says, are predisposed to hairballs because of their long fur and must be groomed regularly to prevent these. Rex rabbits, meanwhile, don’t have enough cushioning on the bottoms of their feet and they often experience foot ulcers or other foot problems. Domestic rabbits can often live ten years or longer, sometimes well into their teens. As they age and grow, they’ll have different needs, especially as it pertains to their diet. Since baby and adult rabbits have different nutritional requirements, Rabbit Rescue and Rehab suggests the following timeline as a guide for your rabbit’s changing diet: Seven weeks to seven months: unlimited pellets and alfalfa hay; at 12 weeks, introduce vegetables in half-ounce amounts. Seven months to one year: introduce other hays and decrease alfalfa; decrease pellets to half a cup per six pounds body weight; increase veggies gradually to two cups per six pounds of body weight. One to five years: unlimited Timothy, grass and oat hay; half cup pellets and two cups veggies per six pounds of weight. Six and older: if normal weight, continue regular diet; if rabbit is frail or losing weight, more pellets may be needed maintain healthy weight. Rabbits can also become obese and suffer health effects from extra weight, so it is important to stay in the healthy range.   Health care needs change with age, too. Younger rabbits are susceptible to intestinal disease as they develop the ability to digest hay and establish normal gut function, Heard said, and irregular bathroom use or loss of appetite can signal a problem. Older rabbits, meanwhile, often develop arthritis and kidney problems. “Regular examination by a veterinarian can identify these issues and provide therapy to make your animal more comfortable,” he said. Image: Rita Kochmarjova / Shutterstock

Anterior Uveitis in Rabbits The front of the eye is called the uvea — the dark tissue that contains blood vessels. When the uvea becomes inflamed the condition is referred to as anterior uveitis (literally, inflammation of the front of the eye). It is a common condition in rabbits of all ages. Symptoms and Types The most common symptom is a change of appearance in the affected eye(s). A physical examination of the rabbit can reveal further symptoms including swelling of the iris, white or pink nodules on the iris, eye related discomfort (such as sensitivity to light), and a red eye. Other less common signs may include fluid buildup in the cornea (corneal edema), and unusually constricted pupils (subtle miosis). Causes One of the most common causes of iris inflammation is bacterial infection, generally due to the E. cuniculi microorganism. This bacteria can even infect the fetus while still in the womb. Other causes are a corneal ulcer (ulcerative keratitis), which may result due to traumatic injury, conjunctivitis (pink eye), or environmental irritants. Immunosuppressive disorders, which causes the immune system to not function normally, is another risk factor that may increase a rabbit’s chances of developing this condition. This can result from other diseases or even stress. Anterior uveitis can also be caused by fungal or viral infections. Diagnosis A variety of diagnostic procedures may be used to diagnose anterior uveitis. An examination of the eyes is recommended, including a tonometry procedure and flourescein stain. Tonometry measures the amount of pressure in the eye. Flourescein staining is a procedure where orange dye and blue light are used to detect foreign bodies as well as damage in the cornea (this can rule out a corneal ulcer). Additional diagnostic procedures may include CT scans to identify causes such as dental disease, ultrasounds for trauma victims, and laboratory testing for the presence of the E. cuniculi bacteria. Further tests may depend on additional symptoms and the suspected underlying cause of anterior uveitis. Treatment In most mild to moderate cases, the rabbit can be treated at home. However, some severe cases may require hospital care for the animal. Non-steroid anti-inflammatory drugs may be prescribed to reduce swelling and alleviate pain. Other medications may include topical agents to be applied directly to the eye, and antibiotics to fight bacterial infection. If E. cuniculi is to blame, certain medications may be prescribed. Or in severe cases, lens removal may be necessary. Note that spontaneous lens regeneration is possible in rabbits. Living and Management A complete eye examination should follow five to seven days after treatment. The veterinarian may monitor the intra-eye pressure at the time, as as secondary glaucoma is a risk in cases of anterior uveitis. After two to three weeks the rabbit will again be reevaluated. During this evaluation time, symptoms will be monitored, medication will be administered regularly, and the rabbit will be encouraged to eat. And regardless of the rabbit’s initial response to treatment, it should continue for at least two months. Prevention There is no known way to prevent anterior uveitis. However, some of the condition’s causes, such as trauma, may be avoided by keeping pets away from dangerous situations.

Lameness in Rabbits Lameness is defined as the disabillity of a limb to the point where movement is impaired. This is typically the result of a severe limb injury or as a side-effect of severe pain in the limbs. As the rabbit spends less time using the limb it may begin to favor other unaffected limbs. Moreover, the rabbit will appear to walk rather than hop, as it will not use its hind limbs to push off. The muscular, nervous, and skin systems may all be affected by lameness. Symptoms and Types In addition to limited range of motion in the joints, abnormal positioning of joints, and abnormal joint sounds, a rabbit with lameness may display signs such as: Pain Depression Lethargy Hunched posture while sitting Reluctance to move Hiding Teeth grinding Grunting or crying with movement Decreased appetite or water intake Lack of self grooming Faulty gait — difficulty with hopping, climbing (stairs) Imbalanced muscle mass Bony prominences Swelling over joints Urine scald in the perineal region (due to inability to correctly position self for urination) Causes There are a variety of causes for lameness, including: Congenital development abnormalities Injury to soft tissue, bone, or joint Infection — abscess, septic arthritis, pododermatitis (foot infection) Soft tissue or bone tumors Arthritis Shoulder or hip dislocation (dysplasia) Elbow dislocation (dysplasia) Ligament tears or injuries Fractures Spinal diseases (intervertebral disc disease) Spondylitis (inflammation of the vertebrae) Obesity, lack of exercise Diagnosis Your veterinarian will need to begin by differentiating between lameness due to muscle imbalance and lameness due to a nervous disorder. You will need to give a thorough history of your rabbit’s health, onset of symptoms, and possible incidents that might have led to this condition. A blood and urine analysis will be performed, and an examination of joint fluid to identify and differentiate joint disease. Visual diagnostics will include X-rays for all suspected musculoskeletal causes, and computed tomography (CT) and magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) to help identify and differentiate between causes. Your doctor may also use electromyography (EMG) to test the muscle’s electrical activity. A muscle and/or nerve biopsy to study the cellular structure of the muscle tissue may also be necessitated by your doctor’s findings. Treatment Treatment will depend on the underlying cause and severity of the disease. If your rabbit is suffering from severe loss of appetite, tube feeding can be used to sustain nutrition until its condition has stabilized. Sedatives, or strong or mild pain relievers may be used – such as morphine or regular anti-inflammatory drugs to decrease inflammation and swelling, thereby decreasing discomfort. If infection is suspected, antibiotics may be used with caution. Bandage or splint care may be all that is needed to correct the limb problem, but if the condition is of a more severe nature, such as joint deformities, fractures, abscesses, etc., surgery may be done to repair or remove the cause of the disability. Living and Management   At home, you will need to provide your rabbit with a quiet spot in which to recover, with soft bedding and daily bedding changes. Removal of soiled bedding and measures to keep the fur clean and dry will be an important part of protecting your rabbit from a worsening of its condition. Activity should be restricted to protect the limb from any further injury until the symptoms have resolved. It is important that your rabbit continue to eat during and following treatment. Encourage oral fluid intake by offering fresh water, wetting leafy vegetables, or flavoring water with vegetable juice, and offer a large selection of fresh, moistened greens such as cilantro, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens, spinach, collard greens, and good-quality grass hay. Also, offer your rabbit its usual pelleted diet, as the initial goal is to get the rabbit to eat and to maintain its weight and nutritional status. If your rabbit refuses these foods, you will need to syringe feed a gruel mixture until it can eat again on its own. Unless your veterinarian has specifically advised it, do not feed your rabbit high-carbohydrate, high-fat nutritional supplements. 

Ptyalism Commonly referred to as “rabbit slobber” or the “slobbers,” ptyalism is a condition that causes a rabbit to produce an excessive amount of saliva. This can often lead to dental problems and is recognized because of the moisture around the rabbit’s face. Symptoms Rabbits with ptyalism are in constant pain, which may be exhibited as lethargy, a hunched posture, or an inability to groom. Rabbits may also develop hair loss, especially around the mouth or dewlap (skin flap under lower jaw), or form thickened skin folds. Other symptoms include: Weight loss Inability to eat (anorexia) Uneven facial symmetry Nasal discharge or mucous Grinding teeth Excess tear production Cause Some rabbits are more at risk than others, including those with elongated or abnormally long teeth. Rabbits that eat pellet foods are also more at risk. Occasionally, ptyalism appears in rabbits suffering from a central or autonomic nervous system disorder — a disorder affecting the part of the nervous system controlling automatic functions including heart rate, respiration and saliva production. Soft tissues diseases or bacterial infections that affect the oral cavities and gut can be precursors to ptyalism. There are even medications and environmental toxins that can invade the rabbit’s body and oral cavity causing dental disease(s) and, thereby, ptyalism. Some other causes for this condition include: Gingivitis Rabies Tetanus Metabolic or other gastrointestinal disorders   Diagnosis Your veterinarian will want to conduct a full dental and medical exam on the rabbit to identify any neurological or dental diseases causing ptyalism, or to rule out any other causes. A biopsy may also be performed to rule out oral masses.   Treatment A rabbit suffering from ptyalism may need help eating or fluid replacement therapy, especially if it has severe weight loss. It is important to keep its hair and coat clean and dry. Some require tooth (or teeth) extraction or teeth trimming(s). If the rabbit has developed abscesses or infectious pockets under the affected teeth, your veterinarian may prescribe antibiotics. Living and Management Lifelong treatment is often needed for rabbits with ptyalism, however, with proper care most recover. Follow-up care is also beneficial for rabbits with this condition, especially if they are young. Featured Image: iStock.com/Narongrit Sritana