Rabbits

Renal Failure Rabbits, much like humans, suffer from renal failure. This causes them to produce less urine and is infrequently due to cases of dehydration. There are two forms of renal failure: acute or chronic. Acute renal failure may occur suddenly because of an accumulation of toxins in the kidney(s), or as a result of an electrolyte imbalance. Chronic renal failure, on the other hand, progresses slowly in rabbits, sometimes over the course of several months. Symptoms Depression Inability to eat Fever Diarrhea Seizures Lack of stool or inability to produce stool Heart complications (often in acute renal failure cases) Painful or tender kidneys (when palpitated) Causes The causes of chronic and acute renal failure in rabbits vary; acute renal failure (or ARF) may arise from shock, trauma, extreme stress, stroke, heart failure and blood infection. Meanwhile, a urinary tract obstruction or a urinary tract infection which has spread to the pelvis can bring on either the chronic or acute form of renal failure in rabbits. Aging and diabetes are some other common causes for the condition. Diagnosis To diagnose renal failure, a veterinarian will first want to rule out some other potential causes for the rabbit’s symptoms, including lymphoma, abscesses, or other types of kidney infections. And although it is rare, cysts in the kidneys can also cause the symptoms listed above. Laboratory tests on the rabbit may reveal high levels of electrolytes, including potassium or nutrients such as calcium. This may suggest the animal’s kidneys are not properly excreting these substances. X-rays, CT scans or ultrasounds may also be performed on the rabbit to reveal potential kidney or bladder stones in the bladder, a common source of pain. Treatment A rabbit will generally receive treatment on an outpatient basis. However, if it is experiencing acute renal failure (or crisis), it will require immediate fluid balance therapy to prevent additional injury to the kidneys. Fluids are usually administered intravenously, although the veterinarian may also suggest adding fresh greens to the rabbit’s diet for rehydration. If the veterinarian prescribes glycoprotein medication for the rabbit, it is to help with anemia or a low red blood cell count. Living and Management Lots of rest, a good diet and adequate consumption of fresh water and greens are important for a good prognosis. Even chronic forms of renal failure can be dealt with by following your veterinarian’s instructions and bringing the rabbit in for follow-up care, although older rabbits are less likely to recover with time. Also, rabbits at risk of renal problems should avoid substances that may be harmful to the kidneys including non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). Featured Image: iStock.com/Motortion

Thymoma and Thymic Lymphoma in Rabbits Thymoma and thymic lymphoma are forms of cancer that originate in the lining of the lungs, and are the two main causes for lung tumors and lung cancer in rabbits. They may occur alone and remain local, or they can affect many different organs of the rabbit’s body as the cancer metastasizes, spreading to other tissue in the body. This type of cancer is the most common cause of masses in the mediastinum, or middle part of the body.   The causes for thymoma and thymic lymphoma are not well understood. There is no real data on the true number of rabbits that actually develop the disease, or whether a particular age, gender or breed is more likely to be struck with the disease than any other.   Symptoms and Types   The signs and symptoms of thymoma and thymic lymphoma include the following features:   Bulging of the eyes, usually resulting from the pressure of an underlying tumor within or near the skull; this condition is sometimes called “cranial caval syndrome” in rabbits and other animals Swelling around the upper torso, but especially in the head, neck and forelimbs (formally called cranial caval syndrome) Rapid breathing Shortness of breath Muscle weakness, including around the esophagus, which may make eating and related activities difficult to perform   Diagnosis   Your veterinarian will likely rule out several other conditions before ruling out rabbit thymoma or thymic lymphoma. These include true lymphoma cancer, thyroid cancer, benign or non-cancerous growths, masses requiring removal, and structural abnormalities that may cause pain.   X-ray images may be taken to help measure the cranium so that rapid change can be accurately evaluated. Other diagnostic procedures may include the insertion of a fine needle in order to take a sample of fluid and tissue for a cytological exam — an analysis of the cells, to determine abnormal conditions. The results of the cytological exam will tell your doctor how many lymphocytes or mature cells are present, and how many thymic epithelial (skin) cells your rabbit is producing.     Treatment The treatment for thymoma and thymic lymphoma is often inpatient. Your rabbit will require immediate surgical removal of the mass if it is obstructing airflow. Radiotherapy may help to reduce the burden of the tumor or cancer mass on the underlying tissues following the initial surgery. Some rabbits also need to be be treated with additional steroid therapy to reduce the inflammation, and possibly chemotherapy, although relatively little information is known on the effectiveness of chemotherapy for rabbits that are afflicted with this type of cancer.   Living and Management   Follow-up care is essential after the successful removal of the tumor(s); imaging studies are recommended for as many as three months in order to monitor for recurring illness. However, if the tumor could not be removed completely, the expected prognosis is not favorable over the long term.   Featured Image: iStock.com/leaf

By Laurie Hess, DVM, Dipl ABVP (Avian Practice) Just like people, dogs, and cats, pet rabbits can get fat. We all love to eat, and so do they. Unlike their wild counterparts, however, pet rabbits don’t get the exercise they need to be able to munch away all day. Plus, they don’t have to seek out food the way wild bunnies do, so pet rabbits tend not only to hop less but also to gain more. Recognizing that a rabbit is fat can be difficult, as female rabbits normally have a fold of skin – the dewlap – under their chins to store fat. In an overweight rabbit, it may be difficult to feel the spine under layers of fat along the back. Fat rabbits may also have extra folds of skin around their genital region, trapping urine and fecal pellets and leading to dermatitis (skin infection or inflammation) and matted fur from the accumulation of moisture and bacteria between skin folds that they are unable to reach back to groom. Small animals that are overweight can develop many of the same problems that overweight people can, including arthritis and joint problems (which is especially common in guinea pigs), as well as sores or ulcers on the bottom of their feet from carrying around all those extra pounds. Overweight rabbits may also have trouble turning around to reach their hind ends to ingest their first morning stool – the cecotrophs – that contain essential nutrients and that are typically softer than normal fecal pellets. Added weight can also be taxing on a bunny’s heart, as it has to work extra hard to pump blood out to a larger than normal body. It’s better for pet rabbits to eat right to prevent obesity rather than to try to put them on a weight loss plan once they have become accustomed to eating in a certain way. So, how can you help your rabbit (or other small, herbivorous mammal, such as a guinea pig or chinchilla) stay lean and healthy? Here are five tips to proper weight management in these species: It’s All About the Hay The staple of the diet for an adult rabbit, guinea pig or chinchilla should be hay. Hay is important not only to maintain a healthy population of bacteria in their gastrointestinal (GI) tracts to ferment and digest the food they eat, but also to wear down their continuously growing teeth. Wild rabbits chew on rough, fibrous grasses all day to keep their teeth in shape and their GI tracts happy. While we can’t replicate this diet exactly for our small and furry pets, hay provides the fiber pet rabbits need to keep them healthy, too. Portion the Pellets Pellets are predominantly carbohydrate, and who doesn’t love to eat carbs? The same is true for pet rabbits and too many carbohydrates can pack on the pounds and upset the pH of the rabbit’s GI tract, throwing off the normal balance of their intestinal bacteria and leading to gas production, discomfort and often, ultimately, to decreased appetite. Rabbits eating large amounts of crumbly pellets rather than fibrous hay also tend not to wear down the surfaces of their teeth properly, resulting in overgrowth and formation of sharp spurs on their continuously growing teeth that eventually cause pain on chewing, decreased appetite, a slow down of food passage through the GI tract and the development of a life-threatening condition commonly seen in rabbits called GI stasis. Typically, rabbits with GI stasis must be treated with GI motility-enhancing drugs, fluids and syringe feeding to recover. If left untreated, rabbits with GI stasis can die. The rule of thumb for healthy pet rabbits is no more than a quarter of a cup of high fiber pellets per four to five pounds of bunny per day. If your rabbit weighs more than this, than he or she can get a little more, and if he or she is less than four pounds, he or she needs less. Limiting pellets can be hard, as most rabbits chose them over other foods. But in the end, your rabbit will be healthier and feel better if you cut the carbs. Go for the Greens Like hay, greens promote chewing and contain fiber. They are also low in calorie, so rabbits can generally munch on greens to their hearts’ content without gaining weight. Greens also have the added benefit of containing water – something herbivores need lots of for proper digestion. Fresh leafy greens keep bunnies and other small mammals hydrated and promote the normal movement of food through their GI tracts. Rabbits also have a tendency to absorb huge amounts of calcium from their food, which can settle out in the bladder like sand and can stick together to form bladder stones requiring surgery to remove. The water in greens helps flush out the bladder and lessens the likelihood of calcium forming this sediment in the bladder. Two words of caution about greens, however. First, like some people, some rabbits can’t tolerate huge amounts of greens without developing diarrhea. Every rabbit is different in terms of how much water he or she can ingest without having loose stool. Second, while the water content of most greens actually helps keep calcium-based bladder sediment down, some greens – such as parsley, kale, and spinach – actually contain large amounts of calcium and should be fed just a few times per week. Temper the Treats We all love treats, especially sugary, fatty ones, as do rabbits. But high-sugar or high-fat treats like fruit (dried or fresh), seeds and nuts can alter the motility of a rabbit’s GI tract, interfere with digestion, and lead to weight gain. These foods are not normally part of a rabbit’s diets, and although they love them, rabbits should generally not be offered them. An occasional piece of high-fiber fruit, such as a pear or apple, is fine as a treat, but other sugary fruits, such as bananas and grapes, or high-fat seeds and nuts, have no place in a rabbit, guinea pig or chinchilla’s feeding plan. Hop to It Eating right is the key to weight loss in rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas, however, without exercise, it’s hard to maintain a proper weight. Many pet bunnies spend most of their days in small cages with little room or opportunity to exercise. To promote a healthy body weight, small mammals should have several hours of out-of-cage time daily and should be encouraged to move around. Providing your pet with a solid, non-slip surface to move around on and placing food bowls around the room force the rabbit (or other small mammal) to move around to eat and to burn calories on the way. Having small mammals hunt or forage for bits of food hidden under pieces of paper or buried in chewable cardboard boxes is another way to promote exercise while providing mental stimulation, as well. Lean, well-muscled rabbits will likely live longer and feel better than their overweight counterparts, and following these proper weight-management tips can help your pet be well on its way to healthier living. Dagmar Hijmans via Shutterstock 

Although rabbits are adorable, pint-sized and fluffy, caring for bunnies as pets takes a lot of work. “Rabbits undoubtedly make wonderful pets, but they do require as much or more care than cats or dogs,” says Dr. Susan Horton, DVM, president of Chicago Exotics Animal Hospital. Dr. Horton explains that rabbits have complex needs when it comes to their environment, nutrition and general care. She says that anyone who is interested in introducing a rabbit to their household should do plenty of research first. Unfortunately, giving a rabbit on Easter tends to be fairly common, and most of these rabbits end up homeless or worse, says Dr. Horton. Here are some things you need to consider before adopting bunnies as pets. Rabbits Don’t Like to Be Held Rabbits are terrestrial animals, which means they are most comfortable on the ground, says Dr. Horton. “Being lifted out of their comfort zone is very stressful,” she adds, and “being lifted in an insecure manner can trigger panic in your rabbit. They have fragile legs and backs that break easily without the right holding technique.” In fact, the best-case scenario is for rabbits to be held only by trained individuals who can prevent them from hurting themselves if and when they try to return to the ground. If you’d like to hold your rabbit at home, try sitting on the ground to build trust with your rabbit on his own level. Always support the hind end when holding and discuss with a veterinarian the correct way to hold and handle the rabbit prior to adopting. Rabbits Require Lots of Space Healthy rabbits that are properly cared for can live 10-12 years, and while most are traditionally small in size, a rabbit actually requires a lot of space. “You’ll often hear rabbits called ‘pocket pets,’ which implies that they can be kept in a small cage and are not difficult to maintain,” says Dana Krempels, PhD, president of H.A.R.E., Inc. (Houserabbit Adoption, Rescue, and Education, Inc.). “Nothing could be further from the truth.” “Rabbits do not just live in cages but require a large pen or room,” explains Dr. Horton. “This area will, at times, be filled with hay and destruction as the rabbit goes about its normal daily routine of digging, chewing, playing and eating.” Dr. Krempels recommends keeping even small bunnies in a rabbit playpen—not a cage—that is at least 4 feet by 4 feet by 3 feet, with lots of enriching rabbit toys and a litter box. You May Need to Litter Train Your Rabbit As far as litter boxes go, rabbits can be trained to use one in the same way a cat would, but you should keep in mind that these animals are very fastidious. That means you’ll need to keep their litter box area as clean as possible to keep them happily using it. Rabbits Have a Chewing Habit Also because of their excessive chewing habit, special care should be given to rabbit-proofing their living quarters, as well. “Electric cords, for example, are particularly dangerous and need to be guarded against their teeth,” says Dr. Horton. Rabbits Have Strict Dietary Needs Caring for bunnies as pets means paying particular attention to their diet. Feeding the wrong type of hays in the wrong amounts at the wrong ages can cause major digestion issues and can even be fatal for rabbits. It can lead to GI stasis, which is a common and concerning issue in rabbits. “Rabbits are strict vegetarians,” says Dr. Horton. “Their main diet is grass hay, specifically timothy or orchard. As young rabbits, alfalfa is also part of their diet. Rabbit pellets can be fed while growing or nursing but otherwise are allowed as treats or for training.” She adds that salad greens also play a big part in a balanced diet for rabbits. Dr. Horton says, “An adult rabbit may take 4-6 cups of healthy salad daily.” Ignoring your rabbit’s dietary needs can lead to dangerous health problems. For example, obesity is common with rabbits who are fed pellets exclusively or are offered seed treats, says Dr. Horton. Diarrhea can also occur with overindulgence in fruit. In fact, “Improper gastrointestinal tract function or health is common in rabbits fed improperly,” Dr. Horton adds. “This can lead to serious consequences, or even death, if not attended to immediately.” Stick to a strict herbivore diet of unlimited timothy or orchard hay, small amounts of high-quality pellets and a daily ration of mixed greens, including dark green lettuces, kale, parsley, cilantro, mint, dill, basil and fennel, for optimal health, suggests Dr. Krempels. Rabbits Sleep During the Day Rabbits are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk) with periods of activity all throughout the night. They prefer taking long naps during the day, so you shouldn’t expect your rabbit to be too much company during your waking hours. When they are awake, though, rabbits are very smart and interactive. “You should expect to have a good three to four hours of interaction with them daily,” says Dr. Horton. Your Rabbit May Want a Companion Rabbits also tend to do best in male/female pairs, Dr. Horton adds, but not all rabbits bond well. “Working with a rabbit shelter that’s well-versed in pair-bonding can help find your rabbit the perfect companion.” Rabbits Have Unique Grooming Needs Rabbits—especially long-haired ones—need to be brushed, since their fur can easily become matted. But, you should never give your rabbit a bath. “This can be so stressful to the rabbit that it may suffer cardiac arrest,” says Dr. Horton. It is important to clean your rabbit’s ears, however, especially if he’s lop-eared. “To clean a rabbit’s ears, use a cleaning solution prescribed by your veterinarian that is safe for rabbits,” says Dr. Horton. This solution should always be room temperature or a little warmer. Instill enough fluid into the ear to fill the canal, and then gently massage the ear to loosen debris. “Allow your rabbit to shake the liquid out of the ear,” Dr. Horton says. “Swab what remains with a cotton ball.” Cotton swabs should never be used, as these can cause damage to the ear canal or eardrum if used incorrectly. For more intense cleaning needs, see your veterinarian. Rabbits Can Get Stressed Easily Stress is actually a big issue with rabbits, and all new things should be introduced slowly. “If something is too alarming or stressful, it should be removed,” says Dr. Horton. To understand if an item is stressful to your rabbit, introduce it in a mindful way. “If the item is no problem, the rabbit will respond with curiosity and interest,” says Dr. Horton. If the item causes your rabbit stress, he may thump his foot or hide. Rabbits Require Veterinary Care, Just Like a Dog or Cat While rabbits do require at least yearly veterinary care, most veterinarians don’t see rabbits. You’ll need to find an exotic or small animal veterinarian to treat your pet rabbit. “Veterinarians who examine rabbits go through special training and mentorship in order to properly care for this species,” says Dr. Horton. “Not every veterinarian is trained for rabbits, so research to find an appropriate veterinarian should occur beforehand.” It’s also extremely important to get your rabbit spayed or neutered, just as you would a dog. “Female rabbits have a very high incidence of uterine cancer if not spayed,” says Dr. Krempels. With so much to keep in mind when it comes to caring for bunnies as pets, it’s never a good idea to get one as a surprise gift. “The truth is that no pet should be given as a gift to someone who isn’t prepared,” says Dr. Horton. “Respecting the animal you have chosen to live with is part of pet ownership.” You need to be prepared for the responsibility of the care and well-being of that pet for their entire life. By: Cheryl Lock Featured Image: iStock.com/FatCamera

by Helen Anne Travis Rabbits are social animals that love to please their owners. With a little patience, they can be trained to run agility courses, fetch, jump, and spin on cue. Rabbits are fun and good pets for beginning pet owners, but training them to perform tasks like using a litter pan, hopping onto a scale, sitting still for nail trimmings, and jumping into their carrier makes them even easier to care for. “[Rabbits are] really smart animals that are often underestimated,” said professional animal trainer Barbara Heidenreich. “That’s why I encourage people to train them so they can see their true personalities.” How To Litter Train Your Rabbit Training a rabbit to use a litter pan is relatively easy, as they prefer to eliminate in the same location. Half of the battle is finding the spot in your home that the rabbit has already claimed and then putting a litter box (the bigger, the better) there. But what if your bunny picked a less-than-ideal corner of your home to do his business? One option is to gradually move the pan to a more desired spot. For more drastic cases, you can move the box to the preferred location and add some soiled litter to the mix so the rabbit knows it’s his. Placing the box in a small room, or limiting the animal’s access to a small perimeter around the pan will help drive results. Adding a small handful of hay to one side of the box can encourage the bunny to hop in. Don’t use kitty litter in your rabbit’s pan, as the dust can be harmful, and avoid cedar shavings, which smell nice but can hurt your rabbit’s respiratory tract. Make sure the litter is approved for use in rabbits. Because they like to nibble in their environment, it is vital the litter is non-toxic if ingested. Heidenreich prefers litters made from recycled papers, which seem to be the best for odor control. Clean the pan daily to keep your home smelling sweet. Like most other pets, it’s recommended you spay or neuter your rabbit, which will help prevent male rabbits from spraying and fighting and will also protect female rabbits from certain cancers and health complications. How To Train Your Rabbit To Do Tricks The first step in teaching your rabbit to do tricks is training it to target, or place its nose on a fixed point. This can be leveraged into bigger stunts, like jumping on command, turning circles, and running agility courses. To teach a rabbit to target, Heidenreich uses a small stick with a tiny ball attached to one end. She shows the ball to the rabbit and each time it touches its nose to the ball, the rabbit gets a treat. For many rabbits, curiosity is enough to get them interested in the ball. Others need a little more incentive, so Heidenreich sometimes rubs a bit of the bunny’s favorite produce on the ball to get its attention. Once the rabbit starts seeking out the ball, you can use it to move him to a desired location. Spin it slowly over the rabbit’s head to get him to turn in circles. Raise it in the air and reward the rabbit if he jumps. Your bunny will start to learn that the action he performs is what gets him the treat, and then, fairly soon, you can remove the stick from the equation. “That’s the cool thing about positive reinforcement,” Heidenreich said. “You create situations where the animal says, ‘What do you want me to do? I can’t wait to do it!’” Can You Tame a Wild Rabbit? If you find a rabbit in the wild, it’s best to contact a wildlife rehabilitator or, if you don’t know where to find one in your area, your local veterinarian for advice. Do not move the animal without guidance from a wildlife professional. In most cases, if you’re able to get close to a wild rabbit, it is likely sick or orphaned. The animal is probably frightened and will only be stressed further by your attempts to take it in. It may also injure itself—or you—trying to get away from you. “Truly wild animals don’t make good pets,” said Dr. Peter Helmer, a specialist in small mammals at BluePearl Veterinary Partners in Clearwater, Florida. “They’re a prey species, and you can’t explain to them you’re not about to eat them.” Fortunately, female rabbits can have up to 14 babies in a litter, meaning there are plenty of domesticated rabbits waiting for you to take them home, if having a rabbit companion is what you want.  — If you are interested in helping to rehabilitate wildlife in your area, you can learn more here at the Wildlife Care Association, or contact your local wildlife rescue groups.  Image: bmf-foto.de / Shutterstock

By Cheryl Lock Rabbits can be delightful animals to have as pets, but it’s important to understand the difference between normal naughty bunny behavior and behavior that’s veered into dangerous and destructive territory. What would be considered ‘normal’ destructive behavior for rabbits? Rabbits are, by nature, bound to exhibit some behaviors that are, for lack of a better word, destructive — it’s understanding which behaviors are hazardous for your bunny or yourself that’s important. Chewing and urinating on things are normal behaviors for rabbits.  However, in captivity, rabbits often chew inappropriate objects. Dana Krempels, Ph.D., from the University of Miami Department of Biology, explains that the following would all be considered normal rabbit behavior that manifests inappropriately when they are kept as pets: Digging on the carpet or other floor surfaces (this will likely mimic the digging behavior that rabbits exhibit out in the wild) Chewing on baseboards or corners of walls Chewing on cords that are in a travel or digging path Urinating in corners not designated by a litterbox How can I tell if my rabbit is actually being destructive? It’s often a matter of context when it comes to determining your rabbit’s behavior, says Dr. Krempels. “Sometimes a rabbit will learn that a ‘normal’ behavior elicits a negative reaction — and remember, negative attention is still attention — from the caregiver, and so will use it to get attention,” she said. “Another behavior many caregivers find objectionable is urine spraying, but in most cases this is just the rabbit’s way of saying, ‘I love you! You’re mine!’” However, she added, “it can also mean, depending on context, ‘you are the subordinate, and I anoint you with my majestic pee to prove my point.’” In other words, if your rabbit decides to exhibit his objectionable behaviors after a particularly rough time — perhaps you recently moved, have been trying to litter train your rabbit, got a new pet, or got married, and your partner is now around more — your rabbit could be performing these behaviors as an objection, or a way of lashing out. What issues might lead to destructive behaviors? A leading cause of destructive behavior in rabbits is boredom. A bored bunny is one who will explore options, says Dr. Krempels. “Providing lots of enrichment to promote natural behaviors — like clean cardboard boxes with two door holes cut in the sides to chew on and run through, parrot-safe chew toys or jingly toys, paper towel tubes stuffed with hay or other treats, etc. — will help curb destructive urges brought on by boredom.” Aside from boredom, health issues could also trigger certain bad behaviors. “For example,” said Krempels, “a bunny who is suddenly losing litterbox habits could be suffering from a urinary tract disorder — like an infection, bladder sludge, or bladder stones — or arthritis, which makes it painful to jump into the box.” If you suspect this is the case with your own rabbit, bring her to the vet for further testing. How can I tell if lack of training is the problem, or if it’s a stress-related issue? Unfortunately, this is likely going to be tough to decipher, says Dr. Krempels. “I’ve never seen a rabbit engage in destructive behaviors that were not also normal behaviors under different circumstances,” she said. “So, the important thing is to recognize the context of the behavior.” If you believe your bunny is lashing out with destructive behavior, take a second to consider her current scenario. Has something changed in the house or in the rabbit’s environment that might be causing stress? If so, that might be the  cause of the problem. How can I help my rabbit to avoid destructive behaviors brought on by stress? Aside from removing whatever stressor you believe is bothering your pet (hard to do if it’s a person or a new place home), Dr. Krempels does have a few other suggestions. “I’ve found that the simple act of letting a single rabbit choose a spayed/neutered partner can go a long way to stopping destructive behaviors elicited by boredom,” said Dr. Krempels. “In my experience, paired bunnies are happier, healthier, and less destructive.” If you will be introducing a new pet into your home — whether it’s another rabbit or a different animal, altogether — Dr. Krempels suggests following the introduction guidelines set forth by the House Rabbit Society and always providing a safe haven for your rabbit to be alone whenever he wants quiet time away from his new friend. Keep in mind that it’s not always possible to “train” a rabbit not to engage in destructive behaviors, either. “Rather than training a rabbit not to engage in natural “destructive” behaviors, the caregiver should provide an outlet for those natural behaviors that doesn’t tear down the house.” This includes things like: Supervised out-of-cage time A litterbox with pelleted paper-based litter covered with soft hay in corners where your rabbit has decided to urinate Lots of safe playthings for your rabbit to chew on Protective covers on all wires and cords Tacking untreated/unfinished pine molding to baseboards and wall corners where your rabbit has shown an interest in chewing Paying attention to your rabbit’s surroundings and daily activities and taking just a little bit of time to “rabbit proof” your home from regular bunny behaviors can go a long way toward helping both you and your bunny have a happier life together. This article was verified and edited for accuracy by Dr. Laurie Hess, DVM, Dipl ABVP  Read More How to Care for Your Rabbit

Rabbits are smart, social animals that need entertainment and stimulation to keep them from getting bored. Bored bunnies may chew on their own skin and hair or destroy furniture or other inappropriate objects—such as baseboards, walls and carpet. Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously throughout their lives, so they must chew on hay every day to help keep their teeth from overgrowing. Rabbits also have an innate need to chew. By providing rabbits with safe rabbit chew toys, you can satisfy their need to chew and help them wear down their teeth. However, rabbit toys should not be treated as a substitute for hay when it comes to keeping teeth worn down. How to Pick Out Safe Toys for a Rabbit Pet rabbits should be supplied with safe rabbit toys that they can chew on. The best toys for rabbits are made from hardwood, cardboard or paper. These materials are okay for rabbits to gnaw on and are digestible if ingested in small amounts. However, excess ingestion of toy materials, even if they are safe for rabbits, can cause gastrointestinal (GI) irritation and stasis—a common and potentially life-threatening condition in rabbits that leads to a slowing down of the passage of food through the GI tract. Rabbits can safely chew on cardboard items like paper towel and toilet paper rolls. Wooden pet rabbit toys, especially those in which rabbit food can be hidden, can help fulfill their desire to forage for food. Untreated wood is generally fine for rabbits; however you should never give your bunny sticks or tree branches that you find in the yard. They may contain mold spores, parasites, bacteria or insects that can be toxic. Commercially available sticks made from applewood are safe for rabbits to chew on. Kaytee Apple Orchard sticks are made from sustainable Applewood and are made especially for rabbits and other small animals to gnaw on. Small dog toys made of durable rubber (such as KONG toys) may also be chewed on safely by rabbits. It’s important to note, though, that not all toys marketed for cats and dogs are safe for rabbits. What Not to Let Your Pet Rabbit Chew on Certain materials should never be offered to rabbits. Fabric, carpet, soft rubber, metal or plastic toys, (especially those that have small pieces that break off easily) are not recommended for bunnies. Small pieces that break off can be ingested and potentially lead to GI tract obstruction. Wood that contains a lot of aromatic oil—such as cedar and pine—or that comes from fruit trees that contain pitted fruit (such as peach, plum, apricot, cherry, avocado and plum) are also not safe. Painted or stained objects as well as those that contain large amounts of glue or other adhesives should not be offered to rabbits. The chemicals within these materials may be harmful if to your rabbit if consumed. In general, any decorative objects that are not meant for animals or that have been treated in an unknown manner should never be given to bunnies for chewing. Pet rabbits need plenty space to run around, daily attention and a proper diet that includes unlimited amounts of hay, leafy green vegetables, fresh water and a small amount of rabbit pellets.   Bunnies also need  appropriate rabbit chew toys to keep them happy and healthy. When these basic needs are met, bunnies can make wonderful companions for many years. Image via iStock.com/Artfully79

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Dysuria and Pollakiuria in Rabbits    The urinary bladder normally serves as a reservoir for urine as it is excreted by the kidneys. The bladder stores the urine temporarily, periodically releasing/disposing the urine that is stored there. Inflammation of the lower urinary tract may decrease bladder tone and alter the structure of the bladder, resulting in sensations of bladder fullness, urgency, and pain. Dysuria (painful urination) and pollakiuria (frequent urination) are usually caused by lesions in the lower urinary tracts but may also be indicative of upper bladder disorders or other organ involvement.   Symptoms and Types   Frequent trips to the litter box Urination outside of the litter box Urinating when picked up by owners Blood in the urine Thick, white, or tan colored urine Loss of appetite, weight loss Lethargy Tooth grinding Straining for stools and urination Hunched posture in rabbits with chronic or obstructive lower urinary tract diseases Tender abdomen   Causes   Abnormally high levels of calcium Kidney stones Urinary tract infection(s) Reproductive conditions Trauma Injury Obesity   Diagnosis   You will need to give a thorough history of your rabbit’s health, onset of symptoms, and possible incidents that might have led to this condition. Your veterinarian will need to differentiate from other abnormal urination patterns. A complete blood profile will be performed, including a chemical blood profile, a complete blood count and a urinalysis. The urinalysis may find the presence of infection or pus and blood in the urine, and the blood analysis may find increased levels of blood calcium. Alternatively, the blood count and urinalysis may return normal results.   Other diagnostic tests may include abdominal X-rays, ultrasound, and a contrast study of the bladder and urinary tract – which uses a minimally invasive technique – an injection of a radiopaque/radiocontrasting agent into the space, so that it can be viewed in order to improve visibility on X-ray.   Treatment Patients with urinary tract diseases without an obstruction are typically managed as outpatients, while rabbits with more severe forms of the diseases will warrant hospitlization, especially when multiple body systems are failing. Medication will also depend on the severity of the disease(s). Antibiotics and pain relievers, for example, are often prescribed, but must be given with caution.   Living and Management   Frequent follow-up examinations are recommended, as complications may arise during treatment.   Featured Image: iStock.com/bunnylovinggrl    

Rabbits and Alopecia Alopecia is the complete or partial lack of hair in areas where hair is normally present. This common disorder in rabbits may often be the symptom of another cause, such as infection, trauma or immune disorder. For rabbits, there is no specific age, breed, or sex that is more susceptible to this disorder. Symptoms and Types The primary sign of alopecia is unusual hair loss. Symptoms may progress suddenly or slowly. The exact pattern and degree of hair loss may help determine the cause of alopecia, and identify the condition as primary (happened on its own) or secondary (occurred due to another illness). Causes Alopecia is associated with some sort of disruption of hair follicle growth. This may result from a number of causes, including parasitic infection (such as fleas or ear mites), infectious disease (such as a bacterial infection), a nutritional defect (especially protein deficiencies), or neoplastic causes (the presence of unnatural clusters of cell growth, such as a tumor). Also, if there are multiple areas of hair loss (multifocal), it is most frequently associated with a parasitic or bacterial infection. In some cases alopecia may be the result of a behavioral problem known as “barbering.” This is where a dominant rabbit will chew or pull the hair out of its fellow cage-mate; hair loss predominantly appears on the flanks. Alopecia can occur because of normal shedding patterns, especially in breeds such as the Dwarf, Miniature Lop, and Angora. Diagnosis If alopecia is apparent, there are a number of diagnostic procedures that may be done to determine the cause. A skin scraping and biopsy may be done to rule out any bacterial, parasitic or fungal infections. Additional tests that can be conducted include urine analysis, blood tests, and X-rays. Treatment Treatment and the medications prescribed depends specifically on the underlying cause of alopecia. Medications to treat parasites such as ear mites or fleas, as well as medications to treat bacterial infections, are available. Of course, if the cause is more serious, such as related to a tumor, more drastic measures, like chemotherapy, may be necessary. Living and Management Follow-up care after initial treatment depends on the causes of alopecia. If the alopecia is suspected to be the result of “barbering”, the two rabbits must be separated to avoid future incidents. Prevention As there are numerous causes leading to alopecia, no specific prevention method can be recommended. However, a healthy lifestyle, well-balanced diet with sufficient protein, and general cleanliness of the rabbit’s habitat may be helpful in avoiding needless hair loss.