Fish

The figure 8 puffer (Tetraodon biocellatus) is the perfect puffer for beginner brackish pufferkeepers. It is one of the most colorful of the puffer species, keeping its beautiful markings into adulthood. The figure 8 puffer is friendly, personable and entertaining. And it stays small enough to keep a single specimen in a 15-gallon fish aquarium. The first rule to remember: larger is always better when it comes to aquariums for these puffers—remember, they like to swim! I recommend 10 gallons for every extra puffer you may want to add. Also, a longer tank will give them more swimming room than a tall tank. Individual specimens have proven to live longer and seem to have a better relationship with their keepers. Most will get along with conspecifics and other smaller brackish tankmates, such as gobies and small species of mollies (I’ve seen figure 8 puffers bullied by sailfin mollies). If keeping multiple figure 8 puffers together, it would be best to start them out together as juveniles and let them grow up together. Older puffers may not tolerate the addition of new puffer tankmates.

Eye Disorders In Fishes Eye disorders in fishes can be due to disease, infections, or injury. Symptoms and Types  These disorders can cause the eye(s) of the affected fish to display any of the following symptoms: Swelling Enlargement (giving an appearance of a popping eye) Blood in the eye Ulceration Disfigurement Parasites within the eye Abnormality around the eye A fish’s eye is usually examined with a penlight or a flashlight. These are used to ascertain whether the problem is within the eye or in the area surrounding it. Eye injuries usually occur during shipping and handling, especially if the fish is struggling. Blood in the eye, however, is generally due to infection or injury.

Because we think of plants as important aquascaping elements, we don’t want our fish eating them—but perhaps we need to rethink the concept. This article is about live aquatic plants for your aquarium that will serve as food for your fish. These plants will grow fast enough and be palatable to your fish so that they can nibble on them for a source of nourishment.

Betta fish are known to be some of the most popular fish among hobbyists across the world. And with more than 70 known varieties, bettas can have many unique characteristics.  Learn more about these special fish with these fascinating betta fish facts! 

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5. There Are Many Different Types of Koi Fish There are over 100 different types of koi fish that are separated into 16 groups based on Zen Nippon Airinkai (the original koi club), a club that oversees the breeding and judging standards of koi. Koi can be differentiated by coloration, pattern, and scalation. New varieties of koi are constantly being developed by selective breeding. Three core colors make up many koi varieties: Red (Hi) White (Shiro) Black (Sumi) Other colors that are commonly seen include: Yellow Orange Blue Cream Some fish may have a silver or gold metallic sheen to their appearance. Known as “gin rin.” It is common for koi to be tri-colored, but they can also be either single, bicolored, or multicolored.,6. Koi Fish Can Get Very Big So, how big do koi fish get? It depends on the species—some koi fish can reach up to 3 feet long! In general, koi fish should have 250 gallons of pond space per fish. A pond size of 500 gallons per fish is required for large show fish or reproductively active females.,Koi fish are an extremely popular and colorful form of the fish species Amur carp (Cyprinus rubrofuscus). These fish are commonly kept as an ornamental fish in outdoor ponds or garden water features. They have a rich history in Asian culture dating back thousands of years. A koi fish’s bright vibrant colors and behaviors can provide a splash of color and activity to any outdoor pond.

Fountain Plant (Ophiopogon japanicus) So-named for the gushing appearance of its foliage, the fountain plant commonly appears as an aquarium species. Its long, thin leaves may exhibit attractive white edging and striping. It is highly adaptable and may subsist for many months completely underwater but should quickly be removed to a drier environment if leaves start to die. The fountain plant is best used as a marginal in a warm to slightly cool (64-79° F) environment. Depending upon the variety, it can grow to anywhere between a few inches to well over a foot in height.,Stardust Ivy (Syngonium podophyllum) The stardust ivy is available in many color varieties with white veining, spotting or frosting. It can reach heights of about a foot but is usually a bit shorter. This popular and widely available climbing houseplant is normally grown completely out of water. Stardust ivy will die almost immediately if its leaves are flooded. On the other hand, it can live and grow partially submerged with its long roots trailing into the water. Some hobbyists plant small cuttings in the rockwork of paludaria and terraria with great success. So long as its leaves and stems are allowed to breathe, this plant is undemanding and will thrive under a variety of light conditions.,Image via iStock.com/takepicsforfun By Kenneth Wingerter It’s fairly easy to cultivate most live aquarium (that is, aquatic) plants. If you keep your aquarium plants well-nourished, as well as provide appropriate lighting and water flow, it should be quite simple to maintain many lush aquarium plant species. But they must be true aquarium plants. We are seeing a sort of renaissance in the planted aquarium hobby. Aquatic plant enthusiasts presently have a broader selection of species to choose from than ever before. While choice is always a good thing, there are certain species of plants that may be found in the trade but, nevertheless, are unlikely to flourish under typical aquarium conditions. Among these are a handful of terrestrial and emergent plant species. Breaking the Surface Terrestrials are true land plants that inhabit dryish environments. Emergents are subaquatic plants that live (i.e. root) in water but send the majority of their leaves and stems above the water surface. While some true aquatic plants bear flowers that slightly breach the water surface, they otherwise must live entirely underwater. The all-too-common retail merchandising of nonaquatic plants (sometimes slickly labeled as “decorative” varieties) alongside true aquatic plants might be taken by some to mean that they can survive and grow completely underwater in aquaria. Even so, these types simply cannot tolerate a subsurface existence for long; some species might survive for months submerged, while others pretty much die immediately. Do note that most of these nonaquatic plants are extremely easy to keep in an appropriately constructed paludarium (i.e. riparium) or wet terrarium. In actual fact, many such species may be kept “in” aquaria if grown under aquaponic conditions—that is, if they are positioned in a way that allows only the lower parts of the plant to remain submerged. For example, some small emergents or even terrestrials may grow well from fish tank accessories like the cartridge chamber of a hang-on-the-back filter. Additionally, quite a few cold-hardy varieties may be kept outdoors as marginals in small ponds or container gardens. Here, we identify and discuss six nonaquatic plant species that may be found in the aquarium trade but, nevertheless, should not be used in the conventional planted tank.

Concrete ponds can be “cured” and made safe for fish without any special coatings. Keep the newly constructed pond filled for a week, then drain and refill. After two weeks, drain and refill again. After three weeks, drain and refill again. Wait one additional week and drain and refill a fourth time. The process is most effective if your water tends to be acidic: a pH under 6.5 or so. You can also aid the process by using standard swimming pool chemicals (such as sodium bisulfate) to lower the pH to below 6. In either case, the water changes are still necessary. After this break-in period you can run a test. Wait a week after the final pond refill and then test the pH. Then place some fresh tap water in a bowl and let it sit overnight to allow oxygen and carbon dioxide levels to stabilize. Check the pH the following morning. If the reading is the same or within 0.2 units of the pond water, you can try a live fish test. Put four to six feeder goldfish in the pond, taking care to equalize water temperature and pH differences between the pond water and their original water. Watch them carefully for several weeks. If they remain hardy and active, eat vigorously and do not exhibit strange behaviors, such as darting, listing or hovering, then the pond is ready for other fish. However, there are two basic problems with this approach. First, it takes a long time. All totaled the test period is 10 weeks — virtually the entire summer in the northern half of the U.S. and in Canada. The second problem is that it may take much longer and many additional water changes depending on numerous variables. One never knows what will happen until it has happened. Much of the waiting and uncertainty can be eliminated by using commercial, fish-safe pond sealers. These products might seem expensive — and it takes a lot of sealer to cover a large pond — but they are worth it. A gallon of HERCO Liquid Neoprene, for example, runs about $80 (U.S.) and covers about 80 square feet in three coats. In general, a good seal usually requires at least three coats, so do not skimp. Your pond will need 3 to 4 gallons. I suggest buying extra because nothing is more frustrating than running out of seal the weekend you intend to fill the pond. There are a variety of rubber- and enamel-based products also available. Again, in gallon sizes they cover about 70 to 80 square feet in three coats. These are sold by water garden suppliers under local brand names. If you cannot find any in your area try calling Waterford Gardens in New Jersey, at (201) 327-0337, or Sherer Water Gardens in New York, at (516) 261- 7432. I would not risk the possibility of poisoning the pond (the fish) by using ordinary swimming pool sealing paints. There is no information about toxicity to fish, and some of them do incorporate toxic chemicals to inhibit algae and mildew. Posted By: Chewy Editorial Featured Image: Via Aaron Vowels/Flickr,Q.

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Fact #5: Tetra Love to Chow In the wild, the neon tetras are omnivorous, consuming both meat and plants. They feed upon insect larvae, algae and other tiny invertebrates, said Lewbart. In captivity, tetras seem to do well with fresh flake food, he said, mentioning the importance of always discarding containers of flake food older than six months. “There is often a loss of nutritional value [in flake food older than six months], and freezing keeps the food (and contained vitamins) fresher longer,” he said. “Freeze-dried blood worms and brine shrimp are also a nice treat.”, By Vanessa Voltolina Be it a small glowlight tetra or a piranha, these freshwater fish have made their mark as a popular option for fish owners. With all of the shapes, sizes and colors out there, it’s understandable that pet parents may not know where to begin when including tetra in their tank. We’ve pulled together some lesser-known facts about this popular fish, and important care tips that first-time—and even veteran—tetra owners may find helpful in making their fish feel at home: