Soft Tissue Sarcoma in Dogs
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Image via iStock.com/WhitneyLewisPhotography By Victoria Schade Finding a pet-friendly rental is hard enough, but trying to find one when your best friend is a Pit Bull-type dog is close to impossible. That’s why a Minneapolis-based nonprofit called My Pit Bull is Family is working to help families keep Pit Bulls and other large breeds. They are doing this by compiling a list of rental properties that welcome four-legged tenants, no matter the size or breed type. My Pit Bull is Family was founded in 2011 to address the issue of canine housing discrimination—one rental at a time—regardless of a dog’s appearance or weight. They believe that all dogs are individuals and shouldn’t be judged by the way they look. They want to dispel the myth that Pit Bulls are dangerous dogs by showing that they deserve to stay with the families that love them. The sad fact is that even “pet-friendly” rentals often have stipulations about certain breed types or sizes, preventing people with bully breeds from renting. Many dog breeds, like Great Danes, Chow Chows and German Shepherds, are often also excluded on an ever-changing list. Why Restrictive Rental Policies Hurt Dogs According to the Humane Society of the United States, one of the most common reasons animals are surrendered to shelters is a due to housing, moving or landlord issues, which means that these rental policies can tear families apart. Shannon Glenn, executive director of My Pit Bull is Family, states, “We have been told by shelters across the country that the number one reason why large dogs are surrendered is the lack of housing that will accept them.” Unfortunately, these restrictive rental policies are typically based on misinformation and generalizations about dogs with a certain look, which leads to more dogs ending up in shelters. To combat this problem, My Pit Bull is Family, a completely volunteer-based organization, has created the nation’s largest non-discriminatory dog-friendly housing database. “Each month, our volunteers call 400 dog-friendly apartments that are listed on Rent.com—these are apartments that advertise that they accept dogs already,” Glenn says. “Our volunteers call or research each one online, and we then enter the listings that accept all dogs into our database.” At this point, the organization has contacted over 2,500 listings in 2018. The site also offers tips for renters with dogs, like how to be an “extraordinary tenant,” as well as information for landlords about why renting to families with dogs of all sizes makes good business sense. Pet-Friendly Housing and Affordability Unfortunately, discriminatory pet rental practices aren’t restricted to a single region of the US. The organization has been contacted by close to 3,000 families this year who are searching for truly pet-friendly housing throughout the country. Add to that the fact that even if rentals accept dogs of all breeds and sizes, those options might not be within financial reach for the average renter. Glenn says, “Affordable, pet-friendly housing that accepts all dogs is nearly impossible to find, so we are often contacted by families that cannot afford the listings in their areas.” My Pit Bull is Family recently launched a new initiative to help address the monetary hardships of keeping families together. The Together at Home Fund can assist with expenses like training costs, pet deposits, legal fees and even occasional repairs. Created in August of 2018, this fund is yet another way My Pit Bull is Family is attempting to level the playing field for Pit Bull lovers who are forced to juggle their devotion to their dogs with financial challenges. Renting With a Pit Bull Dog: A Happy Tale Though the organization’s rental search is typically used by families with dogs who are trying to find non-discriminatory housing, in one instance, the service assisted in the creation of a brand new family. Kathy Schuh had wanted to adopt a Pit Bull dog, but because she’d heard of the difficulties of trying to rent with a bully breed, she assumed that she’d have to wait to rescue one until she bought a house. But Kathy discovered My Pit Bull is Family on Facebook and found a truly pet-friendly apartment. With that, she was able to rescue a Pit Bull named Zeus into her new home a few weeks later. Now, 5-year-old Zeus the Pit Bull is paying it forward. He’s the ultimate host, helping to make his feline and canine foster siblings feel welcome as they search for their forever homes. Through community outreach, education and an ever-growing breed-neutral database, My Pit Bull is Family continues to support their mission to “lick discrimination” for Pit Bulls and the people who love them.

Tumors And Cancers Fishes develop tumors and cancers, much like humans and other animals. However, sharks are a type of fish which never develops cancers. Symptoms and Types Most tumors are seen as bumps or lumps under the fish’s skin. But the location and signs of the tumor can be different for each fish, and depend greatly on the type of tumor. Unfortunately, internal tumors or cancers display symptoms once it has become to late to save the fish. Also, the fish’s ability to eat and swim will be affected, causing a rapid decline in its health. Koi fishes usually get tumors in the reproductive organs. They will have swollen abdomens and the illness can become terminal. Conversely, goldfish are susceptible to fibroma tumors and sarcoma cancers. While Gypsy-swordtail fishes, generally develop skin cancer (malignant melanoma). Another type of tumor is found in the gills. It causes the fish to be unable to close its gills, and is due to a thyroid dysfunction. Despite its seriousness, the tumor has a good success rate when it is treated.

4. Make Leashed Introductions Once both pets are comfortable being around each other on either side of a divider, they’re ready for their first true introduction. Controlled introductions should start in common areas of the home with the dog on a loose leash. As the pet parent, it’s important to be aware of both your dog’s body language and your cat’s body language during these interactions so you can quickly identify any warning signs. The dog should have a loose body and tail position and easily reorient toward you when called. The cat should have forward-facing ears, a neutral tail position, and a soft gaze with narrow pupils. They should be allowed to come and go, investigating the dog as they are comfortable. If you see your dog moving slowly, stiffening, or becoming fixated on the cat, it’s time to create more distance or take a break. Similarly, if the cat crouches, freezes, swishes or flicks their tail, pins their ears back, or if their pupils begin to dilate, they are showing signs of stress and need a break from the interaction. If your dog is barking or lunging at the cat, or if the cat is hissing or growling or their fur begins to stand up, it’s best to separate the pets and return to the previous successful step once they’ve had a chance to relax. After numerous positive leashed introductions, allow the cat and dog to coexist with the dog dragging the leash. This gives the pets more freedom to interact while maintaining an added safety measure in case they need to be separated promptly.,5. Decrease Supervision When you are confident that the pets are getting along well, slowly allow them to be together with less supervision. To start: Try leaving the room briefly while still being within earshot. As they continue to do well, you can be absent for longer periods of time. It’s important to give the cat elevated surfaces where they can easily seek refuge from the dog, such as cat trees and cat shelves. This will decrease stress and give the cat a safe escape in case of a problematic interaction. It’s recommended to keep pets separated when you are out of the home, even when they are doing well together. It’s not uncommon for the introduction process to take a couple weeks to a few months, depending on the individual pets. Progress is not always linear, and it’s OK to take a step backward at any point if you start to see signs of stress. The safety and well-being of both pets is always the biggest priority, so avoid putting this process on a timeline. It’s also important to recognize that not every dog-cat pairing is a good fit. If you feel one or both pets are having a difficult time adjusting or if you are feeling overwhelmed, bringing in a qualified positive reinforcement-based trainer may be the best option. Featured Image: iStock/Olezzo Illustrations by Lili Chin,When it comes to introducing a new cat to your dog, a slow and careful introduction process sets everyone up for success. It’s essential to progress at the speed that both pets are comfortable with and to continually monitor them for any signs of fear, anxiety, or stress. The goal is for both pets to have nothing but positive interactions with each other.

The calmest dog breeds have an adaptable, gentle temperament and don’t get riled up easily. These pups love to lounge and aren’t known to be big barkers unless they’re alerting you to danger. But remember that, just like people, every pet is unique with their own personality, so proper socialization and positive reinforcement training are key to helping your pup live their best life and be calm in new situations. If you’re looking for a laid-back furry friend, check out this list of some of the calmest dog breeds to consider adding to your family.

One of the most basic ways that pet parents and dogs connect is through touch. We love the sensation of petting our dogs, and it’s clear that most of them adore it, too. After all, when we stop, we usually get a paw-swat and a “More, please!” expression. But, it might come as a shock to discover that some dogs don’t like petting. It doesn’t matter if it’s a soft stroke or a deep-tissue massage—these touch-aversive dogs prefer to skip cuddly physical contact. Living with a hands-off dog can be a difficult because we all want to show our dogs how much we love them. In many cases, when our dogs move to the other side of the couch when we sit down, we tend to wonder, “Does my dog love me?” and “Does my dog know I love him?” Well rest assured, your dog isn’t abnormal if she’s not a stereotypically cuddly dog; she’s just a dog that has other ways of showing that she loves you. And the good news is that a few lifestyle tweaks can help your dog learn to appreciate pats and cuddles and maybe even ask for them! What Causes a No-Cuddle Dog? It’s easy to assume that every dog enjoys petting, but there are a number of reasons why a dog might not appreciate cuddling, including: Previous abuse: The sad fact is that an anti-cuddling dog could have been mishandled in the past. Dogs that have been treated roughly, spanked or physically disciplined due to outdated training techniques might end up being terrified of what human hands are capable of. Pain: Dogs with undiagnosed pain or injuries are likely to be wary of touch. Older dogs dealing with joint issues, athletic dogs coping with strains or sprains, and even puppies going through a growth spurt might avoid petting because it aggravates the pain. A veterinarian can help you determine if your dog is dealing with pain. Wrong technique or body part: Occasionally, petting-aversion could be due to operator error. A small dog might not enjoy rough rubbing on her head and ears, while a bigger dog might find fluttery pats annoying. Similarly, some dogs don’t enjoy having their rear end scratched but are totally fine with shoulder massages instead. Born this way: It’s probably hard to believe that a dog can dislike petting for no other reason than that he just doesn’t enjoy it. Much like some people don’t want hugs, there are dogs that don’t appreciate up-close-and-personal touching. Signs That Dogs Don’t Like Petting Cuddle-averse dogs can show their dislike in obvious ways, like walking away if a person reaches for them or ducking their head as if they’re about to get swatted instead of snuggled. Often, the dislike manifests in ways that are easy to overlook, like a series of behaviors called “calming signals” that are subtle and happen quickly. For example, if you notice your dog leaning away and licking her lips when you pet her, it’s possible she’s not enjoying it. She might also avoid looking at you or take a few steps away so that you’re not able to touch her with the same intensity. Some dogs even lick the person who’s petting, which is easy to misread as affectionate kissing; however, because many people don’t like slobbery licks, these dogs use the strategy to get people to stop touching them. Can Your Dog Become a Cuddly Dog? With a gentle approach and patience, non-cuddly dogs can learn to appreciate touch and can maybe even learn to love it! But helping your hands-off dog enjoy touch means putting your pup in control. Here are the steps you can take. Follow Your Dog’s Signals for Physical Contact Rather than assuming your dog is enjoying what you’re doing, watch her body language for clues so that you can determine if you’re on the right track. First, reduce all physical contact for a few days other than for necessary behaviors, like putting on the leash. It’s not easy to stop loving up on your dog, but this step is important because it shows your dog that you understand what she’s been telling you. Watch to see if your dog requests physical contact from you during this stage, like brushing up against you or putting her head beneath your hand. If not, continue to withhold casual petting, but remember to find other ways to connect with your dog, like with verbal praise and play. Try a Pet Test and Pay Attention to Your Dog’s Reaction Once you’ve refrained from petting for about a week, try a “pet test,” which is a great way to gauge how any dog, petting-averse or not, is feeling about physical contact in that moment. Give your dog a few gentle rubs on his chest or shoulders for about three seconds, then stop and watch your dog’s reaction. If she wants more, she’ll probably move in closer to you, lean up against you or paw at you. If your dog is still feeling hands-off, she won’t ask for more and will likely just stand there when you stop, or even move away. If your dog signals that she’d like you to continue, try another brief petting session; the key to success is keeping these initial sessions short. Your dog’s acceptance of touch doesn’t mean she’s ready for a prolonged full-body massage. Watch your dog’s reactions as you touch her, and try to finish petting before she asks you to stop. Continue to offer your dog brief pats, always paying attention to what she’s telling you as you connect with her. You can vary where you try petting your dog, the type of touch you give her and the duration, as these aspects can all impact her enjoyment of the process. Honoring Your Dog’s Need for Space Keep in mind that even the snuggliest of dogs might not want to be touched all the time. Stressful situations, like a trip to the vet, can make any dog less likely to enjoy touch. Pet parents who take the time to understand what their dog is telling them will know when a petting session is appreciated and when it actually makes their furry best friend uncomfortable. The fact is that even with remedial training, there’s a chance that your dog will never appreciate snuggling up. That doesn’t mean that there’s anything wrong with your dog or that she loves you any less. Understanding your dog’s likes and dislikes and honoring them is one of the best ways to be your dog’s advocate. There are a million other signs that your dog loves you, like that happy tail wag when you come home and the way she always keeps her eyes on you. The affection is there—your dog just has a different way of showing it! By: Victoria Schade Featured Image: iStock.com/eclipse_images

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Vertebral Fracture or Luxation in Rabbits Normally, rabbits have very strong hind legs, which they use for hopping. Vertebral fracture or luxation (dislocation) of the limbs in rabbits is a common cause for weakness and paralysis of the hind limbs. Sometimes, often because of improper handling, caged rabbits can twist their legs right at the junction of their lumbar spine and sacrum (base of the spine), which can result in a vertebral fracture. Some develop what is called a luxation, which is a dislocation that occurs at the lumbar L7 point (the lower spine), though fractures are far more common than luxations. This type of trauma may cause the rabbit to lose control of its bladder function, and possibly lose control of its bowel movements too. Symptoms and Types The signs and symptoms often depend on the severity of the condition. The following are some of the more common signs and symptoms: An abnormal or unusual stance, including an inability to hop Dragging of the legs Inability to get up or sit in an upright posture Decreased movement in the limbs and tail Paralysis or weakening of the limbs Trauma to the legs or back Pain may be evident Signs of lethargy and depression Rabbit appears guarded Decreased tone in and around the anus, urinary incontinence Increased muscle tone in the front limbs to compensate for loss of movement in back limbs) Causes The causes for vertebral fracture and luxation are varied and may include: Improper handling: When restraining rabbits, it is important to restrain the hind legs and the front legs; holding just one or the other may result in dislocation or fracture Surprise reaction: A reflexive movement in response to being startled may cause the rabbit to move or jerk suddenly, resulting in dislocation or vertebral fracture Trauma: Injury may occur during medical procedures, such as when a rabbit struggles against being given gas anesthetic and attempts to jump away, falling from the table’s height; while a rabbit may initially appear calm, many struggle against medical procedures, so it is important to safely restrain the rabbit prior to induction of any medications Diagnosis Because there are several possible causes for weakness and/or paralysis of the hind limbs, your veterinarian will most likely use differential diagnosis. This process is guided by deeper inspection of the apparent outward symptoms, ruling out each of the more common causes until the correct disorder is settled upon and can be treated appropriately. You will need to begin by providing a thorough history of your rabbit’s health leading up to the onset of symptoms. Other causes may include infection with Encephalitozoon cuniculi, central nervous system (CNS) infections, lesions on the CNS, metabolic diseases, or damage to the spinal cord. Your veterinarian will also test the spinal reflexes, along with taking radiograph images to assess any damage to the limbs. These will reveal the condition of your rabbit’s spine, and whether the bone is in fact fractured, or has become dislocated from its socket. Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) can be used to provide the most accurate images of what is going on with the limbs, but this type of imaging is not always available for small animals. Treatment If your rabbit is displaying severe paralysis or weakness, and is not able to move or cannot utilize bladder or bowel movements, inpatient care will probably be necessary. Even if you are able to provide home care for your rabbit, activity is often limited to bed rest only. Your rabbit will need to be kept still while it recovers from its injury, with frequent turning to prevent bed sores from forming on the skin (a condition caused by the body lying in one position for too long). Home care will require making sure that the bedding is frequently changed, and a careful diet that is structured to prevent the rabbit from becoming cachectic (a wasting of the body that is caused by loss of appetite). Most rabbits will require hand-feeding during this time, until they are able to feed themselves again. Your veterinarian may also find it appropriate to prescribe a gastrointestinal agent for your rabbit to protect the stomach lining and reduce the risk of ulcer formation. To help your rabbit through the painful process of healing, pain killers can be prescribed to help reduce its discomfort. Antibiotics are only advised if secondary infections are present, as their use can be controversial due to secondary complications that have been associated with their use. Living and Management The final prognosis is guarded and is dependent on the severity of the trauma and your rabbit’s ability to eat and physically recover following the inpatient or home based care. Specially designed wheeled carts may be available for rabbits that recover but that still suffer from long-term paralysis, or paresis (partial paralysis) due to the trauma. Most rabbits with severe trauma to the spinal cord do not regain full mobility, and in some causes euthanasia may be the only humane option.

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