Fish

Crayfish, can be very interesting but it is often difficult to identify a species or even find information about its requirements in captivity. Before learning about some possible aquarium crayfish, we need to cover the basics of these intriguing invertebrates. Crayfish are found in a variety of habitats. Occasionally, they are found in brackish water, and some species can survive in saltwater for several days, but no marine habitats are permanent locations for crayfish. They are solitary animals that reside in dens or crevices, which they defend against intruding species members. This aggressive behavior can change under certain conditions, however. For example, some species, such as Orconectes virilis, are passive when they molt or just before. In some species, too, aggression depends on temperature. A rising or falling temperature may be a spawning trigger, depending on the species, and then the aggression is proportional or inversely proportional with the rise in water temperature. The pH is not generally an important factor with captive specimens.

Jump to section Signs of Stress in Fish Why Is My Fish Stressed? How To Treat Stressed Fish Can a Stressed Fish Recover? Can a Fish Die From Stress? How To Prevent Fish Stress

5. Shrimp Molt as They Grow Beginner fishkeepers often think they have dead shrimp lying on the floor of the aquarium. These often aren’t actually dead shrimp; they are the shrimp exoskeletons that were shed. Molting is a necessary process that shrimp must go through numerous times as they grow. When they are young, shrimp will shed their skin around once a week. An easy way to tell whether the shrimp-like shape at the bottom of your aquarium is a shell or a dead shrimp is that dead shrimp tend to be pinkish in color. A shell, on the other hand, looks almost exactly the same as a living, colorful shrimp. As soon as an aquarium shrimp sheds their shell, they are very vulnerable because their new shell is quite soft in the beginning. They’ll usually hide for the next few days until their shells have hardened.,6. Shrimp Are Brilliant Swimmers While their primary mode of moving around is walking, shrimp are actually really good at swimming. This is not the typical type of swimming we’re used to seeing in fish (because shrimp have no fins), but shrimp are able to move around quickly in the water. Shrimp are best at swimming backward. These arthropods can propel themselves backward by flexing the muscles in their abdomen and tail quickly. They move their abdomen toward their body, and this projects them quite quickly through the water. Shrimp can also swim forward, albeit more slowly than they’re able to move backward, by using the limbs on the underside of their body. By Robert Woods of Fishkeepingworld.com Featured Image: Adobe/Swapan,Aquarium shrimp have become increasingly popular over the last few years. They add a new, fun element to aquariums and come in a range of colors and sizes. Many people think they are difficult to look after, but shrimp are pretty easy to care for—once you know how. Here’s what you need to know about keeping shrimp in an aquarium.

Nest Characteristics: Caves consist of holes in the rock, crevices, areas underneath overhands and empty spaces between rocks in a pile. Eggs are often laid on a cave’s roof. Fish That Create These Nests: Many cichlids, such as kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher).,Nesting Type: Pit-diggers

Bottom-feeders are generally much more sedentary. They have limited locomotory requirements, as can be seen in examples such as the suckermouth and whiptail catfish. They tend to be compressed dorso-ventrally and, since they live on the bottom of their environment, have no need for a swim-bladder. Their specialization comes in the forms of camouflage, feeding and defense rather than quick movement.,Fish Body Shape and Movement Like all animals, the fish’s body is a result of specialization in its environment. Water is about 800 times thicker than air and an aquatic life has its own difficulties, such as buoyancy, drag and the amount of effort needed to move through such a dense medium.

This is not your typical loach. Firstly, it can easily exceed a couple of feet in length. And, it has a somewhat flattened head with little, beady eyes. It sports a bright golden background color and dark, erratic blotches. This odd loach comes from clear, well-oxygenated parts of the Yangtze River system, where it is under serious threat due to the construction of dams on the river. Therefore, it is imperative that any aquarist that stumbles upon this very uncommon animal ensures that it is captive-raised before making any purchase. Individuals sell for around $225 each; however, experts have advised that this highly social species be kept in groups of around four or more individuals per tank.,Despite the occasional economic downturn, fishkeeping (and indeed the aquarium industry) has steadily grown over the last half-century. An increasing demand for rare fish has coincided with this trend. While it seems that there are countless “holy grail” saltwater species, the freshwater side of the hobby has its own share of unusual, much sought after fishes. In point of fact, some of these freshwater rarities are among the most difficult and costly to obtain in the entire ornamental fish trade. Of course, demand for some rare species is restricted to a mere handful of specialists, and accordingly commands only a slightly higher price (certain killifishes, rasboras, etc.). The following is a mere sampling of some notable, rare freshwater aquarium fishes. Rarity may be defined by very narrow (albeit totally absolute) criteria; for example, while most koi retail for $10 to $20, exceptionally well-bred individuals often sell for tens of thousands of dollars at auction. It should be noted that the term rare is here used to indicate rarity in the trade, not necessarily in the wild; one should always avoid wild specimens of threatened or endangered species.

Catfish are one of the most numerous groups of fish and one of the most popular with hobbyists. Even those who only have a single community tank likely have at least a couple of catfish. One of the most popular groups of catfish consists of the so-called plecos, the Loricaridae or suckermouth catfish. The bushy nose plecos are members of the genus Ancistrus, one of the most popular genera in this family. Bushy nose plecos get their common name from the growths that develop on the heads of mature males. These growths make the males look like they are wearing a beard. For many years, these growths were used to differentiate many species; but then it was discovered that individual males would have more or less bristles at different times of the year. The exact mechanism for this is still not completely understood, but many experts believe it is associated with reproduction. In the aquarium, most Ancistrus species that have been spawned to date will spawn year round; so, many males retain their full regalia throughout the year. No one is exactly sure how many species are in the genus Ancistrus, and even experts have trouble differentiating the species. So most aquarists just stick with the safe name “Ancistrus sp.” when describing the fish that they are keeping. In general, Ancistrus are mottled with dark and light browns, sometimes with grays and blacks. Many, especially when young, have white or gold spots. These often fade as they reach maturity. Some have a white, blue or gold band on the edge of the caudal fin. This also usually fades with maturity. Over the years, aquarists have developed several aquarium strains. Even with these, it is not clear which species we are working with. There is a beautiful albino strain, as well as a couple of different long-finned strains, which have also been bred into albino strains. The long-finned fish are especially striking, as the dorsal, pectoral and caudal fins can be nearly as large as the body in some full-grown males. Many species are covered with various spines and hooks, and the male’s pectoral fins have a first ray covered with tiny little hooks almost like Velcro. In addition, they have a set of cheek spines that remind one of a combination of a switchblade knife and a medieval war mace. These cheek spines are kept tucked away until the Ancistrus feels threatened. Then they are extended instantly, almost like the fish flicking out a switchblade. He then thrashes from side-to-side, brandishing these formidable weapons. The problem for hobbyists is that the fish can’t tell the difference between the hostile intent of an enemy and the benign intent of the aquarist and a net. This leads to a tendency to become hopelessly entangled in the mesh of nets to the point where they have to be cut free. It is best to catch and move Ancistrus by using a plastic container to corner and lift them. They have sucker mouths, which are lined with spoon-, peg- or comb-shaped teeth. With these, they rasp algae from surfaces in the wild and in aquaria. They are excellent algae-eaters and will quickly denude a tank of algae; at such a point, they need to be moved to another tank with algae or be given supplemental vegetarian fish food, or they will likely starve. In aquaria, besides algae they will feed on algae wafers, algae-based flakes and pellets, zucchini, spinach, kale, romaine lettuce, peas, carrots and green beans. A particular favorite for some reason is canned French-cut green beans. Even wild-caught Ancistrus will eat them right away. There is also some evidence that at least some species require wood in their diet. It’s a good idea to add a piece of driftwood for them to nibble upon. You will notice over time that it will shrink in size. Mature male bushy nose plecos will fight with one another to establish territories, especially at breeding time. It is best to keep only one male to a tank or keep groups with several males in large tanks. Females are much more laid-back, and several can be kept together even in a 10-gallon tank. Ancistrus are perfect for algae control in community tanks. They will scour every surface in the tank and soon develop a daily routine, visiting certain favorite spots every day. They will eat most types of green algae but ignore the red “beard” algae that plague so many aquaria (the person who discovers a fish that will eat these nasty algae will go down in aquarium history). They also seem to avoid the hair-type algae, though they will eat it if there is no other green food available. In general, they ignore plants, but some aquarists have blamed their bushy nose plecos for holes that appear in plant leaves. Whether this is due to the bushy nose or some other fish is still hotly debated. Personally, I have never had a bushy nose eat anything but algae and veggies. Many aquarists breed bushy nose plecos, and it is likely that most available for sale in local pet shops are raised locally. The spawning setup is simple, and well-fed, mature bushy nose plecos are happy to cooperate year-round. A 10-gallon tank makes a perfect love nest. The water should be kept in the range of 78 degrees Fahrenheit to no more than 82 degrees. The pH and hardness appear unimportant, but it would likely be best to use water around neutral with a low to moderate total hardness maybe no more than 250 ppm. A mature sponge filter with a gentle flow of bubbles, a piece of driftwood and several caves would complete the tank. Plants aren’t necessary, and ambient room light is adequate. Add a pair or a trio of bushy noses. Feed daily with an assortment of vegetable foods, and give the tank regular 50-percent water changes. Add a single feeding of frozen brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, bloodworms or other meaty foods every other day. This will help bring the females into spawning condition more quickly. After a couple weeks of the royal treatment, the male will begin courting the females. He does this by swimming headfirst into a cave, then fanning and flashing his tail like a semaphore flag outside the cave entrance. He likely also releases some pheromones that this fanning movement helps to spread into the current. Ripe females will come over to investigate. He will allow a single female to enter the cave. She will lay a clump of maybe 75 to 100 orange to yellowish eggs, and he will fertilize them. It is surprising how large these egg clumps are: sometimes half the size of the female that lays them. These sticky egg masses look like clumps of orange grapes and will stay together even in a strong current. The male will violently drive any interlopers away, and it would be best to remove the females at this point, though some hobbyists report the female will occasionally be allowed to “inspect” the egg clump. The male is on guard duty now until the eggs hatch. He gently rolls the egg clump and fans it with his fins to keep it clean and make sure it is well-oxygenated. Sometimes the male will not care for the eggs at all, and the aquarist has to step in. It is best to remove the fish from the tank and move the egg mass up into a net breeder, where the eggs will have circulation all the way around. Some hobbyists move the filter so that the flow of water will be just near (but not directly on) the eggs. Either way, after about four to five days, the eggs hatch. The larvae look like eggs with a tail at one end, a pair of eyes and a tiny sucker mouth. At this point, they are bright orange. Over the next few days, they will wiggle together and absorb their yolk sacs, slowly becoming darker. After about a week, they will have absorbed the yolk sac and will then need to be fed. They are ravenous eaters and need to be fed several times a day. Foods like canned French-cut green beans, algae wafers and the algae on rocks are all devoured. Some hobbyists also feed some meaty foods, such as baby brine shrimp or microworms, but others stick to the veggies. The fry grow quickly, and by four weeks they are an inch long and are miniature copies of their parents. At this point, it is best to spread them out into a couple of tanks where they can continue their rapid growth. Local pet shops will take the fry even at this small size, as there is always a demand for them. If you reach this point, congratulations! You’ve completed another successful Adventure in Fish Breeding! By: Chewy Editorial Featured Image: Via Gary Lange

You do not have to add carbon dioxide to grow beautiful aquatic plants. Growth depends on how your aquaria are set up, especially with regard to lighting. If your lighting level is high, you are likely to have algae problems if you do not also add carbon dioxide; but with low to moderate lighting, added carbon dioxide is not necessary. All that your aquatic plants need is a reasonable balance of nutrients and light. Carbon dioxide is important for aquatic plant growth, but it is in the water even you don’t put it there yourself. Carbon dioxide enters the water from the atmosphere, from fish respiration and from various other microbiological processes that naturally occur in a planted fish aquarium. If you do not add carbon dioxide, there will be enough in the water (about 3 to 5 parts per million) for aquatic plants to grow under low to moderate lighting. The obvious question is: “What is a low, moderate or high lighting level for plants?” Usually, we do not have enough information available to make a precise assessment of how light is available that aquatic plants can use for photosynthesis. The green part of the light spectrum is reflected by most plants, so it is not of much use for photosynthesis. How much light from the photosynthetically active region of the spectrum does a light bulb yield? This info is not usually available. Luckily however, aquatic plants are not very picky about the color of light outside of the center of the green region, so almost any broad-spectrum fluorescent or metal halide bulb will do. What matters most is how much light is produced, not what color it is. Aquatic plants are adaptable, so precision is not necessary. Thus, there is a rule of thumb that we can use to assess lighting levels. Low lighting is about 1 1/2 watts per gallon (wpg) and is probably the least amount of light you need to provide an aquatic garden. Moderate lighting is about 2 wpg, and high lighting about 3 or more wpg. The lighting period should be roughly 10 hours per day, give or take an hour or two. The wpg rule works well for broad-spectrum fluorescent bulbs and metal halide (MH) bulbs, and aquariums of about 10 gallons or more. It does not apply for incandescent bulbs because they are so inefficient; they convert about 95 to 97 percent of the electrical energy into heat and only 3 to 5 percent into light. Incandescents generally are not practical for lighting aquatic gardens—you need a lot of wattage to get enough light, and then you have too much heat. Fluorescents and MHs convert about 35 percent of electrical energy into light. The wpg rule does not apply to very small planted aquariums, because often much of the light shines outside the aquarium. For example, I have a couple of three-fourths-gallon aquaria, each with a 7-watt fluorescent bulb. About half the light from each bulb is cast outside the small area of the aquarium. So, the wpg rule of thumb has to be adjusted for very small planted aquariums. If a lot of the light over reaches the aquarium, you can have more wpg. On larger planted aquariums, with the bulbs close to the top of the aquarium, virtually all of the light shines down into the aquarium. Carbon dioxide isn’t required, unless you have about 3 or more wpg. On very small planted aquariums, you can get away with even higher wpg if much of the light is not going directly down into the aquarium. At higher lighting levels, more photosynthesis will occur but you are more likely to have algae blooms, unless you also add carbon dioxide. If you add carbon dioxide, you will generally avoid the algae problems that higher lighting brings—but only to a point. It gets harder to avoid algae problems as you add more than 2 wpg. If you add carbon dioxide, aquatic plant growth will be more robust, even with low or moderate lighting. If you are interested in more robust growth, carbon dioxide is something you should consider. You can add carbon dioxide easily and cheaply by setting up a yeast fermentation bottle, and feeding a tube from the bottle top into the intake of a powerhead or canister filter. If you don’t want to make one out of a plastic water or soda bottle, you can buy fish tank filters on the market. Besides light and carbon dioxide, aquatic plants need a variety of other nutrients. Basically, in an aquarium with low to moderate lighting, the fish food you put in the planted aquarium can probably provide enough of the macronutrients. It is a good idea to add trace elements (micronutrients) with a commercially available trace element mix. About half my aquaria do not have added carbon dioxide, but I add trace mix to all my aquaria to ensure that at least the minimum amount of the micronutrients are available to the aquatic plants. On any planted aquarium with moderate or more lighting, plus added carbon dioxide, I also add macronutrients, potassium, nitrate and phosphate. The amount of macro and micronutrients must fit with the lighting level and amount of carbon dioxide—more lighting and more carbon dioxide means more nutrients to support faster growth. JoAnn mentioned that her aquatic plants are doing well while others appeared to “lack growth.” I’ll assume they look healthy enough and that the issue is with the rate of growth. I don’t know the types or variety of aquatic plants JoAnn is growing, but I will say that it is not surprising for different kinds of aquatic plants to perform differently under a given set of conditions. There are aquatic plants such as anubias, which grow very slowly even under the best conditions, and Amazon sword plants (Echinodorus bleheri), which grow very quickly with a lot of light, carbon dioxide and other nutrients, and grow very slowly when these things are available in only moderate amounts. Most stem plants grow quickly with plenty of light, carbon dioxide and other nutrients. Hygrophila polysperma, ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora) and Bacopa monnieri are all fast growers. Yet some stem plants, like Lysimachia nummularia, grow relatively slowly. With low lighting, just about any aquatic plants you are likely to come across will grow slowly. Anubias will seem not to grow at all for weeks. Anubias and some other plants actually do best with low light, whether from less wpg or by being shaded by other plants. These aquatic plants do not grow much faster with extra light, but the leaves, because they grow so slowly and live so long, eventually collect algae. With moderate lighting, some aquatic plants will grow noticeably more quickly than at low lighting levels, even if you do not add carbon dioxide. If you do add carbon dioxide, plant growth will accelerate even more. Cryptocoryne species such as the wentii do very well with moderate lighting. Provide more light or add carbon dioxide, and wentii will grow faster, and will develop larger and longer leaves. With high lighting plus carbon dioxide, the fast growers really take off. You might even find the regular pruning that fast growth demands to be a bit of a chore. Good examples are the Amazon sword plant and H. polysperma, which can grow at an amazing rate if you provide plenty of light, carbon dioxide and nutrients. Some aquatic plants don’t do well without at least moderate lighting, and a few require high levels of lighting to really look nice. Didiplis diandre does not do well without at least moderate lighting. Under low lighting, the leaves will be small, and the stems will be leggy (meaning that instead of short spaces between the leaf nodes on the stems, the spaces will be long; the plant will also look stringy and sparse). The stems will be fuller under moderate lighting, and high lighting will make the upper portions take on a lovely reddish color. Every aquarium is different. You might find that one type of plant does well in one of your aquaria but not in another—differences in setup, fish load and maintenance routines will affect plant performance. Try different aquatic plants, and see what keeps a healthy appearance in your aquaria. Slow growth is to be expected in an aquarium with low lighting, or with moderate lighting and no added carbon dioxide. But a slowly growing garden can still be beautiful.,Q.

In This Article What Do Fish Need in Their Diet? View 7 More +

What About Bettas and Goldfish? Even though there really isn’t any fish species that is suited for life in a bowl, bettas and goldfish are especially poor choices. Bettas Yes, you’ve seen it before. Bettas in bowls! Cups, even. And yes, a betta might even survive for some time under these conditions. But again, we should ensure that the animals in our care thrive, not merely survive. Bettas prefer very warm water—even warmer than many other tropical fish. Thus, a dependable water heater (such as the Marina betta aquarium heater) is necessary. Also, poor filtration can be fatal for this species. The fact that they can breathe air while in oxygen-poor environments has more to do with a hot climate (oxygen solubility decreases with increasing temperature) than with polluted waters in their native habitat. Exposed to dirty water in an unfiltered or poorly filtered bowl or tank, bettas are highly susceptible to infections in their characteristically long fins. Goldfish Goldfish are perhaps the worst choice for a bowl, or any small container. Not only are they notoriously messy fish that generate copious amounts of waste, but they also grow to sizes more fit for a pond. Yet the term “fish bowl” is nearly synonymous with “goldfish bowl.” This is mostly the result of millions of juvenile goldfish having been given away as carnival prizes, usually from inexperienced aquarists to inexperienced aquarists. Though they can live to many years of age, the unfortunate specimens obtained under these circumstances very rarely survive for more than a few weeks. Fishkeeping is indeed a hobby where many, many conflicting opinions abound. However, among the most experienced aquarists and industry professionals, there is almost universal agreement that fish bowls just don’t work. Specifically, a bowl cannot provide an adequate living environment for any fish, big or small. So, give the fish under your care what they need and deserve: the biggest, healthiest home possible. By: Kenneth Wingerter Feature Image: iStock.com/satit srihin,Even for many of us who already own and maintain sizable aquarium systems, the idea of keeping fish in a tiny enclosure can be rather appealing. Whether on the office desk, a bedroom nightstand or an entry table in your home, it’s understandable why someone might want that little splash of life that a fish bowl seems to provide. You do have to admit that many of these bowls, especially when stocked with a miniature fish and a sprig of aquatic plant, can be quite cute. Additionally, some hobbyists, particularly those who are hesitant to spend much money, might consider a fish bowl a cheap alternative to a fish aquarium. But for fish, they do not provide a healthy or suitable environment. Let’s find out why. Fish Bowls Are Not Easier to Maintain Most often and most incorrectly, some believe that because a fish bowl is smaller, it is easier to maintain than an aquarium. Nothing could be further from the truth. As many seasoned aquarium retailers will surely tell you, the vast majority of attempts to keep fish in bowls ends in one of two ways: either keepers quickly find the bowl too difficult to manage and upgrade to a conventional aquarium system anyway, or their experience with the bowl is so frustrating that they give up on fishkeeping altogether. This is particularly so where novice fishkeepers are concerned.