Rabbits

Cachexia Weight loss can occur in rabbits, but when they lose 10 percent or more of their normal body weight it becomes a major concern — no longer an issue of decrease in fluid weight. It is especially worrisome when the weight loss accompanies muscle atrophy (or the wasting away of muscle mass). This state of poor health is usually referred to as cachexia, and it requires immediate medical attention. Symptoms and Types The symptoms the rabbit displays are dependent on the underlying cause of the condition. However, general signs will include thinness or a reduced size and appearance. Other signs and symptoms may include: Lack of stool production Grinding of teeth Hunched over posture Drooling Bad breath Inability to eat Disinterest in food Distension or abnormal bloating in the intestinal area around the stomach Masses or foreign bodies present when touching (or palpating) the abdomen Abnormal breathing sounds Heart murmurs or irregular heart rhythms Causes There are many different causes for cachexia (and weight loss) in rabbits. These can include increased metabolism. For example, the animal’s body may start using lean muscle for energy in order to carry out its daily functions. Metabolic disorders such as organ failure or disorders associated with cancer can also bring this type of weight loss. Some other common causes may include: Dental diseases which can make eating difficult Dietary causes, including too little food or poor quality food Gastrointestinal disorders Central nervous system disorders that can contribute to anorexia or similar disorders Neuromuscular diseases and pain (e.g., degenerative joint disease) Spinal problems (e.g., spinal fractures or dislocations) Diagnosis To make a proper diagnosis, the veterinarian will first determine the animal’s diet. The veterinarian will also examine the animal’s teeth, as dental disease is a common cause for weight loss. Finally, they will run various tests, including X-rays, to rule out any organ and neuromuscular problems, masses or cancers. Treatment Much like the symptoms, treatment is dependent on the underlying cause of the weight loss. However, the veterinarian will probably treat any symptoms shown by the rabbit, including pain relief for cancers or electrolyte replacement for animals suffering from dehydration and fluid loss. This will not cure the condition, but will help stabilize the animal. Most rabbits will also be prescribed a well-balanced diet which includes plenty of fresh greens. Living and Management Prognosis for the rabbit will vary depending on the nature of the disease or disorder causing the weight loss. In all cases, it is important to provide the animal with healthy feed. Also, frequent monitoring or follow-ups is dependent on the condition’s cause and overall health of the rabbit.

By Joe Cortez In southeastern Native American folklore, rabbits are often considered “tricksters,” perhaps for their mischievous and sometimes confusing behaviors they demonstrate during play. In addition to their nicknames, new rabbit owners will likely have many questions about their new companions, including what to call a baby rabbit and how to tell the difference between a boy rabbit and a girl rabbit. Learn the answers to the most frequently asked rabbit questions here.  How many rabbit breeds are there in the world? Rabbits come in all different shapes and sizes, each with a distinct personality of their own. “There are nearly 50 breeds of domestic rabbits, with many sizes, shapes and colors represented among them,” said Dr. Jen Quammen, master of public health and veterinarian at Grants Lick Veterinary Hospital in Butler, Kentucky. Additionally, some breeds have more distinguishable traits than others. The Lionhead is known for its large mane, while Dutch rabbits are known for their black-and-white color pattern. What do you call a baby rabbit? Not to be confused with cats, a baby rabbit is called a “kit” or “kitten.” Consequently, a mother rabbit will have a litter of kittens when it gives birth and can have up to 14 kittens in a litter. Litter size depends on breed, with smaller rabbits having four or five kits per litter and larger rabbits having between eight and twelve kits per litter. The smallest litter on record is one kit and the largest is 18 kits! What is a male rabbit called? Borrowing a term from another woodland creature, a male rabbit is known as a “buck.” Despite the name, an un-neutered male rabbit will not rut when they are interested in mating, instead, they may sniff, lick, nuzzle, tail-flag and spray to express their interest in a female. What is a female rabbit called? Although a female rabbit may be colloquially known as a “bunny,” the technical term for a female rabbit is a “doe,” and an adult rabbit may also be called a “coney.” While a female rabbit may be identified as a doe at birth, it typically doesn’t reach maturity until nearly a year old. A rabbit’s maturity age depends on breed. Small rabbits can reach maturity around four or five months, while medium-sized rabbits reach maturity between four and six months and large rabbits reach maturity between five and eight months. Does mature earlier than bucks. How can I tell if my rabbit is male or female? Unlike other animals, male and female rabbits may not have major difference in appearances. The only sure way to tell if your rabbit is male or female is to examine their genitals. Female rabbits will have a very distinct appearance to their genitals, almost protruding from their body. “In female rabbits, there is a v-shaped or mountaintop appearance,” Quammen said. “From the side, it can look like a pyramid and it will be sticking up or out somewhat.” Male rabbits are recognizable by two oblong testicles, which appear above their genitalia. For those trying to determine the sex of a kit younger than four months, Dr. Christine Kabalan of East Hilliard Veterinary Services in Hilliard, Ohio, suggests applying gentle pressure to the point from where they urinate. If your rabbit is male, the penis would extrude out, she said. Testicles descend in a male rabbit around 12 weeks of age. What sounds do rabbits make? According to Kabalan, rabbits make three distinct types of sounds, each describing a different emotion. The noises range from grunts, to thumps and even a purring-type sound. One of the most common sounds your rabbit will make is a grunt. “Grunting is an attention seeking behavior,” Kabalan said. “It means they are excited or eager, or if a male is intact and wants to mate.”  Grunting is also a sign of agitation, or a “back off” warning to other rabbits or people, and can be followed by scratching or biting. Rabbits grunt when they feel threatened or to show disapproval. When a rabbit is content with life, they may “purr” by clicking their teeth together. However, Kabalan advises this should not be confused with teeth grinding or chattering, which can be a sign of pain or illness. When a rabbit is unhappy or is alerted to potential danger, they will make a “thump” sound. “Thumping is where a rabbit takes a back foot and thumps it on the ground,” Kabalan said. “They do this when they are disapproving of the situation.” Rabbits also thump when they are afraid or nervous. In the wild, they thump to let the other rabbits of the warren know that there is a predator or danger present. A rabbit will only make outward noises if they are in pain or terrified. If a rabbit begins squealing or screaming, seek medical attention immediately, as it means the rabbit is in crisis. Why does my rabbit shake its head and make funny jumps? Rabbits are not shy about expressing their emotions, with one of their most prominent being happiness. They show their joy by dancing in the air and performing what is called a “binky.” “Binky is an expression of extreme happiness,” Kabalan said. “They jump in the air and twist their head and body in opposite directions either standing in one place or while running.” Although this behavior may be concerning for a new rabbit owner, this is actually a very good sign. When a rabbit binkies, it means they are happy and content in their home. While their behaviors and personalities may be complex, knowing how to understand your rabbit is a strong start to a long lasting relationship. By understanding these basic facts about rabbits, you are on your way to a long and loving bond with your new furry friend. Image: Russamee / Shutterstock

Vertebral Fracture or Luxation in Rabbits Normally, rabbits have very strong hind legs, which they use for hopping. Vertebral fracture or luxation (dislocation) of the limbs in rabbits is a common cause for weakness and paralysis of the hind limbs. Sometimes, often because of improper handling, caged rabbits can twist their legs right at the junction of their lumbar spine and sacrum (base of the spine), which can result in a vertebral fracture. Some develop what is called a luxation, which is a dislocation that occurs at the lumbar L7 point (the lower spine), though fractures are far more common than luxations. This type of trauma may cause the rabbit to lose control of its bladder function, and possibly lose control of its bowel movements too. Symptoms and Types   The signs and symptoms often depend on the severity of the condition. The following are some of the more common signs and symptoms: An abnormal or unusual stance, including an inability to hop Dragging of the legs Inability to get up or sit in an upright posture Decreased movement in the limbs and tail Paralysis or weakening of the limbs Trauma to the legs or back Pain may be evident Signs of lethargy and depression Rabbit appears guarded Decreased tone in and around the anus, urinary incontinence Increased muscle tone in the front limbs to compensate for loss of movement in back limbs) Causes The causes for vertebral fracture and luxation are varied and may include: Improper handling: When restraining rabbits, it is important to restrain the hind legs and the front legs; holding just one or the other may result in dislocation or fracture Surprise reaction: A reflexive movement in response to being startled may cause the rabbit to move or jerk suddenly, resulting in dislocation or vertebral fracture Trauma: Injury may occur during medical procedures, such as when a rabbit struggles against being given gas anesthetic and attempts to jump away, falling from the table’s height; while a rabbit may initially appear calm, many struggle against medical procedures, so it is important to safely restrain the rabbit prior to induction of any medications Diagnosis Because there are several possible causes for weakness and/or paralysis of the hind limbs, your veterinarian will most likely use differential diagnosis. This process is guided by deeper inspection of the apparent outward symptoms, ruling out each of the more common causes until the correct disorder is settled upon and can be treated appropriately. You will need to begin by providing a thorough history of your rabbit’s health leading up to the onset of symptoms. Other causes may include infection with Encephalitozoon cuniculi, central nervous system (CNS) infections, lesions on the CNS, metabolic diseases, or damage to the spinal cord. Your veterinarian will also test the spinal reflexes, along with taking radiograph images to assess any damage to the limbs. These will reveal the condition of your rabbit’s spine, and whether the bone is in fact fractured, or has become dislocated from its socket. Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) can be used to provide the most accurate images of what is going on with the limbs, but this type of imaging is not always available for small animals. Treatment If your rabbit is displaying severe paralysis or weakness, and is not able to move or cannot utilize bladder or bowel movements, inpatient care will probably be necessary. Even if you are able to provide home care for your rabbit, activity is often limited to bed rest only. Your rabbit will need to be kept still while it recovers from its injury, with frequent turning to prevent bed sores from forming on the skin (a condition caused by the body lying in one position for too long). Home care will require making sure that the bedding is frequently changed, and a careful diet that is structured to prevent the rabbit from becoming cachectic (a wasting of the body that is caused by loss of appetite). Most rabbits will require hand-feeding during this time, until they are able to feed themselves again. Your veterinarian may also find it appropriate to prescribe a gastrointestinal agent for your rabbit to protect the stomach lining and reduce the risk of ulcer formation. To help your rabbit through the painful process of healing, pain killers can be prescribed to help reduce its discomfort. Antibiotics are only advised if secondary infections are present, as their use can be controversial due to secondary complications that have been associated with their use. Living and Management The final prognosis is guarded and is dependent on the severity of the trauma and your rabbit’s ability to eat and physically recover following the inpatient or home based care. Specially designed wheeled carts may be available for rabbits that recover but that still suffer from long-term paralysis, or paresis (partial paralysis) due to the trauma. Most rabbits with severe trauma to the spinal cord do not regain full mobility, and in some causes euthanasia may be the only humane option.

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By Helen-Anne Travis What do you feed a rabbit? The answer is simple. Rabbits thrive on high-fiber diets rich in grass hays including timothy, brome and orchardgrass hay. Those new to rabbit ownership may think the big bags of pellets for sale at the local pet store are all a rabbit should eat. Instead, the pellets are more like a rabbit multivitamin, providing supplemental minerals, protein and fiber. “Pellets are far too rich to make up the bulk of [a rabbit’s] diet,” said Dr. Peter Helmer, a specialist in small mammals at BluePearl Veterinary Partners in Clearwater, FL. “Rabbits have evolved eating grasses and roots; there are no pellet dispensers in the wild.” You can also feed your pet rabbit fresh vegetables, but not the carrots we associate with Bugs Bunny. Carrots have more sugar than adult rabbits’ digestive tracts prefer. Small amounts are fine as treats, Helmer said, but dark leafy greens are preferred. Broccoli leaves and stems and dark leaf lettuces make more suitable rabbit snacks. What to Feed a Baby Rabbit Versus an Adult Rabbit For the first seven weeks of life, a baby rabbit’s diet should consist of mostly its mother’s milk, according to the House Rabbit Society, a nonprofit organization dedicated to rescuing abandoned rabbits and educating the public on rabbit care. At three weeks, alfalfa hay and pellets can be slowly introduced, giving them free range to both at seven weeks. During this period you can also give your pet small tastes of romaine lettuce and carrots, but should avoid the dark leafy greens until your rabbit is a bit older. While baby rabbits (which are called kits) thrive on the protein and calcium-rich alfalfa hays, adult rabbits need something a bit more substantial. “It’s like feeding a dog puppy food,” Helmer said. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein than grass hay, which is ideal for growing rabbits but too rich for adults. If you are feeding alfalfa it’s a good idea to feed it mixed with grass hay. This stops your rabbits getting so hooked on alfalfa that it’s difficult to make the transition to grass hay when they reach adulthood. You should phase out alfalfa at around four to five months old. Around six months, slowly start swapping out alfalfa in favor of grass hays and ease up on the pellets. Adult rabbits should eat around 1/4 cup of pellets per day for every five pounds of weight they have, according to Helmer. By the end of its first year, your rabbit’s daily diet should consist of unlimited grass hays, a small portion of pellets and two to four cups of at least three different fresh vegetables for every six pounds of weight. Wash and chop all vegetables thoroughly and serve them moist to help aid digestion. Always introduce new foods slowly, and remember to keep your rabbit’s water dish clean and filled with fresh water. What Not to Feed Rabbits The most problematic foods for rabbits, according to Helmer, include foods that have a high amount of sugar and foods that have a high amount of carbohydrates, as these items throw off the balance of the bacteria in their gastrointestinal tracts. High-carb foods, like breads, crackers and cereals can cause diarrhea, while fruits, which we normally think of as healthful, often contain more sugar than a rabbit’s stomach can handle. The House Rabbit Society recommends feeding healthy, non-dieting adult rabbits no more than two tablespoons of high-fiber fruits (think apples, blueberries and plums) per day for every five pounds of body weight. Wash everything thoroughly and be sure to remove any pits and seeds. Too much fruit will not only overwhelm their stomachs, but can cause them to turn up their noses to the more healthful grass hays and dark leafy greens that should make up the bulk of their diet. Where To Buy Rabbit Food Fortunately, you don’t have to go to a farm to get your rabbit hay, as it is sold both in pet stores and online. When shopping for hay, there isn’t much that separates one brand from another, Helmer said, but make sure the package isn’t moldy or foul smelling. For pellets, the House Rabbit Society advises you look for brands that contain at least 18 percent fiber. It’s also not advised to buy more rabbit feed than you need, as six weeks or more worth of your rabbit’s food can easily spoil. Image:  MaxShutter / Shutterstock

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Paresis and Paralysis in Rabbits Paresis is defined as weakness of voluntary movement, or partial paralysis, while paralysis is the complete lack of voluntary movement. Symptoms and Types Four of the main types of motor dysfunction include: Quadriparesis or tetraparesis – weakness of voluntary movements in all limbs Quadriplegia or tetraplegia – absence of all voluntary limb movement Paraparesis – weakness of voluntary movements in hind limbs Paraplegia – absence of all voluntary movement in the hind limbs Their symptoms may present suddenly or gradually. However, sudden onset of paresis/paralysis is common following an injury to the spine. In fact, many rabbits sustain a fracture or a dislocation of the spine just by suddenly jumping within their cages due to a startling event such as a loud thunderstorm, fireworks, or loud noise from unfamiliar people or pets in the home. Other symptoms associated with these conditions include: Abnormal walking pattern (unable to hop or get up; dragging of affected limbs) Loss of bladder control Loss of hair, flaking over the head, shoulders, and tail due to inability to properly groom Severe obesity due to lack of exercise Causes In rabbits, weakness may be due to the effects of organ or metabolic disease, obesity, or to direct damage to the nerves. If the nerves are injured — either within the brain or spinal column — they will not communicate properly with each other and the rest of the body. This can lead to to increased stiffness in the muscles, and hypersensitive reflexes. If the peripheral (outer) nerves are damaged, meanwhile, absence of muscle reflexes and decreased muscle tone is seen. Diagnosis Your veterinarian will first need to confirm that the problem is weakness or paralysis by localizing the problem to either the lower or upper motor neuron system. Several tests will be conducted to determine the underlying cause of the motor dysfunction. A complete blood profile will be conducted, including a chemical blood profile, a complete blood count, a urinalysis, and an electrolyte panel. Both voluntary and involuntary motor responses will be analyzed, with urinary and bladder function checked. X-ray imaging is an important diagnostic procedure for the discovery of this disorder’s origins. Spinal X-rays will be taken to assess fracture or dislocation of a calcified disc, narrowed disc spaces, bony tumor, or vertebral malformation, and skull X-rays may show a dental disease, which, if chronic, can lead to weakness and chronic debility. Whole body X-rays may identify an underlying heart disease, tumors, kidney stones, or orthopedic disorders. In addition, computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) may be used to evaluate potential brain disease. An abdominal ultrasonography will be done if an underlying metabolic disease (e.g., renal, hepatic) is suspected. Since partial or complete loss of muscle control is most often linked to a trauma or diseased condition of the spine or nervous system, the most effective method by which to determine the location of a spinal cord injury, tumor, or infection is to take a sample of spinal cord fluid (cerebrospinal fluid [CSF]) for analysis. Your doctor will also need to get a clear view of the spinal cord. Using a technique called a myelography, which uses an injection of a radiopaque agent into the spinal space in order to improve visibility on X-ray, he or she will be able to view any apparent abnormalities in the spine. The veterinarian may also need to take a nerve sample, or a sample from the muscle tissue, for biopsy.   Treatment Your rabbit will be cared for as an inpatient if it presents with severe weakness or paralysis, or until bladder function can be ascertained (an indicator of the severity of the condition). If possible, the veterinarian will treat the underlying cause of the paresis or paralysis. For example, pain relieving medication as well as anesthetics and gastric protective agents may be provided. If paralysis is present, the bladder may be emptied by manual compression. Inability to urinate voluntarily can make the rabbit more susceptible to infection, so it will be important to monitor for signs of urinary infection and the spread of infection into the bladder. For fractures and damaged nerves, your doctor may be able to surgically repair them. It must be kept in mind that some injuries are too traumatic for repair. The final outcome will be dependent on the diagnosis. Living and Management If your rabbit is having problems with urinary continence, you will need to make extra efforts to keep the bedding clean so that the rabbit is not in soiled bedding. Additionally, keep the fur clean and dry; check and clean your rabbit’s genital and hind leg area frequently to prevent urine scalding. You will need to restrict your rabbit’s activity until spinal trauma and disk prolapse can be ruled out. If your rabbit has been placed on cage rest, you will need to make sure to move your rabbit at regular intervals in order to prevents lung congestion and pressure sore (bed sore) formation by turning it from one side to the other four to eight times daily. This is very important, as the rabbit will not be able to do this on its own. If your rabbit is unable to urinate on its own, you will need to perform manual expression of its bladder regularly enough tot prevent the possibility of bladder infection. Your veterinarian will go over the procedure with you so that you can perform this task at home. If your rabbit is only affected in the hind legs, a cart — the type that is made for small breed dogs — may sometimes be fitted for larger rabbits, and may be tolerated for limited periods. Encourage oral fluid intake by offering fresh water, wetting leafy vegetables, or flavoring water with vegetable juice, and offer a large selection of fresh, moistened greens such as cilantro, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens, spinach, collard greens, etc., and good-quality grass hay. You should also continue to offer your rabbit it’s usual pellet diet, as the initial goal is to get the rabbit to eat a full diet. If your rabbit cannot, or will not eat, you will need to syringe feed a gruel mixture. High-carbohydrate, high-fat nutritional supplements are contraindicated and should not be given with the approval of your doctor. Do not give your rabbit any foods or medicines that have not been preapproved by your veterinarian. Featured Image: iStock.com/xavierarnau

By Matt Soniak Rabbits are sometimes seen as low-maintenance, “starter” pets that can get by in an outdoor hutch with a few carrots and little monitoring. However, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Domestic rabbits are indoor pets that require as much attention as any other pet, including a specific diet and daily meals, regular cleaning of their quarters, daily monitoring and time out of their cage and medical care from a veterinarian with knowledge of and experience working with rabbits. Rabbits are also highly social animals that crave contact and interaction with their human caretakers. They need a lot more time and effort than people assume, but the payoff is a curious, playful companion that will be part of the family for years. Where Can I Find a Rabbit and What do I Need to Care for It? Because of the rabbit’s misrepresentation as an easy pet, many shelters have rabbits that were given up by people that couldn’t take care of them. To adopt a rabbit, check with local animal shelters, small animal rescue groups or the closest chapter of the House Rabbit Society. Rabbit Rescue and Rehab, the New York City chapter of the House Rabbit Society recommends the following items as part of their rabbit supply checklist: Habitat: though they’re relatively small, rabbits need quite a bit of space to stretch out or hop around. Mary Cotter, founder of Rabbit Rescue and Rehab and vice president of House Rabbit Society, recommends a puppy playpen for your rabbit to call home, but if you have to use a cage, make it the largest one you can get. The House Rabbit Society recommends purchasing a cage or crate no smaller than four feet long, two feet wide and four feet tall. This provides enough space for a litter box, toys, food and water bowls and for the rabbit to stand or lay stretched out. The crate should have a solid bottom, and a mat, blanket or towel on the bottom of the crate will keep the rabbit from slipping and give it a comfortable surface to sit on. Travel carrier: to take your rabbit home or to and from the veterinarian, you’ll need a hard plastic animal carrier, lined on the bottom with something soft and absorbent like a towel or blanket. Litter box and litter: rabbits are tidy by nature and won’t do their business freely all around their crate. Instead, they’ll pick one corner of the crate as their bathroom and consistently go there. Once your rabbit has made their choice, place the litter box or pan there. Cotter recommends lining the box with a layer of newspaper and then filling it all the way to the top with hay. This creates a “miniature yard” for the rabbit, where it can sit, eat and do its business while the hay absorbs the smell. Food: including hay, vegetables and pellets. Rabbits also need to stay hydrated, or intestinal issues can quickly occur. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Bowls for food and water: rabbits are curious and playful, and prone to tipping and flipping lightweight bowls as they move them around and explore their living space. Heavy ceramic crocks or metal bowls will be harder for rabbits to spill. Grooming tools: a soft, rabbit-safe brush is essential for removing hair when your rabbit sheds and safety nail clippers should be used for trimming a rabbit’s nails. Toys: toys provide mental and physical stimulation to keep rabbits from getting bored, overweight and depressed. Good rabbit toys include paper bags and cardboard boxes for crawling into, scratching and chewing, small balls or cat toys that can be tossed around and kitty condos for climbing. Play and exercise area: rabbits need four to five hours each day outside of their crate to exercise, play and socialize. For that, you’ll need a fairly large, rabbit-proofed space. Ideally, this area is carpeted to provide traction as the rabbit runs and jumps, as they can slip or slide and injure themselves on a hardwood or tile surface. How to Feed and Groom a Rabbit Rabbits require a mix of the following items in order to maintain a healthy diet: Hay: stimulates rabbits’ normal chewing behaviors and provides appropriate wear on their teeth, preventing dental disease. The fiber in hay will also encourage proper digestion. Fresh grass hays (such as Timothy, oat, coastal, brome, Bahia or wheat hay) should be provided to the rabbit in unlimited amounts every day. “Hay is the most important part of the diet; they can survive on this alone,” said Dr. Darryl Heard, DVM and professor at the University of Florida’s School of Veterinary Medicine. Vegetables: leafy green vegetables are used to supplement the hay and provide additional vitamins and nutrients. The House Rabbit Society recommends feeding your rabbit a daily mix of three different vegetables like carrots, collard greens, beet greens, broccoli and romaine lettuce. Rabbit pellets: provide additional nutrients to a rabbit but should only be fed as an additional supplement to its diet. Rabbit Rescue and Rehab advises against pellets that contain seeds, nuts or corn, as these are not required in a rabbit’s diet and can contribute to health problems. Water: as mentioned, rabbits should have access to fresh, clean water at all times. Sipper bottles can be used, Heard said, but should be checked regularly to ensure they are working properly, as rabbits will chew on the ends and can cause them to jam. Treats: every pet deserves a treat now and again, but be careful which ones you pick for your rabbit. Too many simple sugars or starches can throw the balance of bacteria in their intestinal tracts off, causing illness. When it comes to keeping your rabbit clean, rabbits are prodigious self-groomers and don’t need a whole lot of help from us, Cotter said. They’ll need to be brushed during their sheds and have their nails clipped every few months, but that’s is generally all that’s needed. Be sure to talk to your veterinarian about any nail-trimming questions you have before you attempt clipping at home. Rabbit Rescue and Rehab recommends changing your rabbit’s litter box daily and cleaning the crate once or twice a week by emptying it, sweeping it out and scrubbing the bottom with warm water. How to Keep a Rabbit Safe Around the House “Rabbits are very inquisitive and can get into trouble anywhere,” said Nickol Finch, head of the Exotics and Wildlife Department at Washington State University Veterinary Hospital. “They can open cupboards and chew on cleaners, they will chew on wood work, carpeting [and] wires, which can result in electrocution.” To rabbit-proof your pet’s play area, move houseplants or cover them with sheets and protect cords and wires with flexible plastic tubing. Cotter recommends putting sport socks on any furniture legs that the rabbit can get to. They won’t save the wood from being chewed, but can buy you a few minutes to redirect your rabbit’s attention to its own toys. Rabbits are small and delicate, and great care needs to be taken when handling them. Adults should be the primary caretaker of a pet rabbit and carefully supervise children interacting with them. When a rabbit must be held or carried, support their front half, under their rib cage, with one hand and their rear end with the other, holding them close to your body like a football. Keep their legs tucked underneath them to avoid back injury, and never lift a rabbit by the ears of scruff. What Type of Medical Care Do Rabbits Need? There are no recommended vaccines for rabbits in North America, but pet rabbits should be seen by a veterinarian at least once a year for a checkup and all pet rabbits should be spayed or neutered when they reach maturity. This helps prevent uterine cancer in female rabbits, aggressive behaviors like mounting and spraying in male rabbits and unintended breeding. Finding a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbit care and skilled in treating them can sometimes be difficult. The House Rabbit Society maintains lists of veterinarians around the country and your local chapter or rescue society can likely also recommend a local veterinarian with rabbit experience. Caring for a Rabbit Over the Course of Its Life There are dozens of different rabbit breeds that vary in size, color and body and ear type, but all have their own charms. A common misconception is that smaller breeds need less space than larger ones, but they actually need just as much room to run and hop around in. Some breeds have special needs that owners need to keep in mind. Angora rabbits, Heard says, are predisposed to hairballs because of their long fur and must be groomed regularly to prevent these. Rex rabbits, meanwhile, don’t have enough cushioning on the bottoms of their feet and they often experience foot ulcers or other foot problems. Domestic rabbits can often live ten years or longer, sometimes well into their teens. As they age and grow, they’ll have different needs, especially as it pertains to their diet. Since baby and adult rabbits have different nutritional requirements, Rabbit Rescue and Rehab suggests the following timeline as a guide for your rabbit’s changing diet: Seven weeks to seven months: unlimited pellets and alfalfa hay; at 12 weeks, introduce vegetables in half-ounce amounts. Seven months to one year: introduce other hays and decrease alfalfa; decrease pellets to half a cup per six pounds body weight; increase veggies gradually to two cups per six pounds of body weight. One to five years: unlimited Timothy, grass and oat hay; half cup pellets and two cups veggies per six pounds of weight. Six and older: if normal weight, continue regular diet; if rabbit is frail or losing weight, more pellets may be needed maintain healthy weight. Rabbits can also become obese and suffer health effects from extra weight, so it is important to stay in the healthy range.   Health care needs change with age, too. Younger rabbits are susceptible to intestinal disease as they develop the ability to digest hay and establish normal gut function, Heard said, and irregular bathroom use or loss of appetite can signal a problem. Older rabbits, meanwhile, often develop arthritis and kidney problems. “Regular examination by a veterinarian can identify these issues and provide therapy to make your animal more comfortable,” he said. Image: Rita Kochmarjova / Shutterstock

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Anterior Uveitis in Rabbits The front of the eye is called the uvea — the dark tissue that contains blood vessels. When the uvea becomes inflamed the condition is referred to as anterior uveitis (literally, inflammation of the front of the eye). It is a common condition in rabbits of all ages. Symptoms and Types The most common symptom is a change of appearance in the affected eye(s). A physical examination of the rabbit can reveal further symptoms including swelling of the iris, white or pink nodules on the iris, eye related discomfort (such as sensitivity to light), and a red eye. Other less common signs may include fluid buildup in the cornea (corneal edema), and unusually constricted pupils (subtle miosis). Causes One of the most common causes of iris inflammation is bacterial infection, generally due to the E. cuniculi microorganism. This bacteria can even infect the fetus while still in the womb. Other causes are a corneal ulcer (ulcerative keratitis), which may result due to traumatic injury, conjunctivitis (pink eye), or environmental irritants. Immunosuppressive disorders, which causes the immune system to not function normally, is another risk factor that may increase a rabbit’s chances of developing this condition. This can result from other diseases or even stress. Anterior uveitis can also be caused by fungal or viral infections. Diagnosis A variety of diagnostic procedures may be used to diagnose anterior uveitis. An examination of the eyes is recommended, including a tonometry procedure and flourescein stain. Tonometry measures the amount of pressure in the eye. Flourescein staining is a procedure where orange dye and blue light are used to detect foreign bodies as well as damage in the cornea (this can rule out a corneal ulcer). Additional diagnostic procedures may include CT scans to identify causes such as dental disease, ultrasounds for trauma victims, and laboratory testing for the presence of the E. cuniculi bacteria. Further tests may depend on additional symptoms and the suspected underlying cause of anterior uveitis. Treatment In most mild to moderate cases, the rabbit can be treated at home. However, some severe cases may require hospital care for the animal. Non-steroid anti-inflammatory drugs may be prescribed to reduce swelling and alleviate pain. Other medications may include topical agents to be applied directly to the eye, and antibiotics to fight bacterial infection. If E. cuniculi is to blame, certain medications may be prescribed. Or in severe cases, lens removal may be necessary. Note that spontaneous lens regeneration is possible in rabbits. Living and Management A complete eye examination should follow five to seven days after treatment. The veterinarian may monitor the intra-eye pressure at the time, as as secondary glaucoma is a risk in cases of anterior uveitis. After two to three weeks the rabbit will again be reevaluated. During this evaluation time, symptoms will be monitored, medication will be administered regularly, and the rabbit will be encouraged to eat. And regardless of the rabbit’s initial response to treatment, it should continue for at least two months. Prevention There is no known way to prevent anterior uveitis. However, some of the condition’s causes, such as trauma, may be avoided by keeping pets away from dangerous situations.